Crimp vs half crimp reddit. When to Use Half crimp vs.

Crimp vs half crimp reddit. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Climbers seem to fall into 2 camps with regard to definitions of half vs full crimp. . But I have found that there is a difference between "just hanging" and actively trying to "pull" with my forearm muscles. With half crimp and the thumb just flexing in air, I have to actively fight to keep my hand from opening up. Feb 2, 2025 · This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. Dec 14, 2016 · I've gone through 2 cycles of RCTM's repeater protocols, one beginner and one intermediate. For my final workout, I was hanging -15lbs open handed on a 13mm edge, but -50lbs half-crimped on an 18mm Half vs. I am going to speak in anatomical terms to avoid confusion. See full list on climbing. I am a professional musician and In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. com Apr 5, 2018 · Not on top, as in the full crimp, but still it wouldn't normally be hanging down the way it is shown in the picture, because why? It's a crimp, not a pocket. Is this large strength disparity between half & full crimp common among most climbers? I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. I mostly train half crimp because I feel like it activates my forearm muscles the best, and it also feels the most natural to me. For me personally the squeeze of the index and thumb together, as if you are pinching a sheet of paper, is a key to the half crimp. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. When to Use Half crimp vs. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. Camp 1: significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. Full Crimp confusion : ( Hey everyone, I have searched this subreddit and mountainproject and cannot seem to find a definitive answer.