Auto belay vs top rope reddit. Old gym in MA had tons of auto belays.

Auto belay vs top rope reddit. The device only works properly with very specific carabiners, with very specific rope thicknesses, and very specific rope conditions ( too new in wont lock, too old and the device becomes to grippy to belay without using strength to move the rope. Thanks for any info! I always see the GriGri being compared to ATC-style belay devices and the GriGri being crowned as the safest device available for sport climbing. Drop the rope off the side. Bouldering's fun too. Apparently broke legI just learned why the auto belay was attached to a big piece of canvas that blocked the bottom of the climb. This is a reminder that you must stay focused on safety at all times while climbing, especially by yourself. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. You could either lower them slowly so they get a feel of the auto belay or just let go of your brake hands and let the auto belay take them so they feel the full motion of the auto belay. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. Only things I can think of really! Auto belay for climbing newbs? Very sporadic climber here. Seems cool for indoor climbing though, maybe some gyms will be using it in a few years. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. That being said, I could totally use a climbing buddy if anyone is interested, I can lead climb and all that stuff. It also allows you to remain connected while you test your rappel setup. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. P. Having someone belaying you and watching makes sure you don't backclip, foot behind the rope, skip clips etc I think this may just be too risky to catch on in most gyms. I avoid it because it's less safe than being lowered on belay, that's all. a harness with two tie-in loops? Does the latter have disadvantages with regards to abrasion or longetivity? I often see that ultralight ski mountainering harnesses do only have those tie-in loops instead of one belay loop. Check out the wren soloist. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. Should you need to ascend a rope, you will need friction hitches, so why not rappel with one? I outweigh my partner, so he uses assisted-braking to belay me from his harness, but switches to an ATC Guide to belay from an anchor or rappel. Just adding to the discussion: Imagine the crag has walking access to the top. You bring your rope and biner block or just bowline the rope to the top of the cliff. Then ask the gym if they'll let you use a lead rope to do mock leads for practice (climb on an auto-belay or top-rope, but take a lead rope with you and clip as you go). 5 weeks in July for an event and visiting friends (lived there 15 years ago). Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. My understanding is that a bug might short-rope you, but that the braking mechanism is similar to existing autobelays. Apr 24, 2023 · The auto belay provides a controlled descent using magnets, centrifugal force, or hydraulics as a braking mechanism. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. Is there any valid reason to choose one over the other? Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. I'll add/remove springs to match climber weight. I much prefer the ones at Alexandria as Sterling pumps my arms out too fast, but they can be good in a pinch. I'll tie the rope off at the floor. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Kids under 14 require adult assistance and supervision on autobelays. Annual or bi-annual inspections, as required by the manufacturer, involve disassembly, inspection, repair, testing and recertification of the unit. 9 range, one 5. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. and metal work can go through the belay loop. If the prussic is below the belay device and for some reason you loose both hands on the rope the prussic is locking the rope in the belay device, needing less holding power. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. It could probably decided soft vs. I'm new to climbing, been going to a gym for 6 months and love it. visualize yourself clipping on routes as you climb on top-rope if you can't mock lead with a rope. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. Thoughts on/experiences with auto belay? I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Reply reply ppablo787 • That goes straight into the belay loop. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. EDIT: yes, it does look like this was a fixed gear failure somewhere in the system, but that's the exception, not the rule, and I'll be stunned if it was the auto-belay itself and not rope, webbing, lanyard, or metal (bolts, caribiners, etc). Above the belay device you are putting your entire load onto the prussic. Try using two oval carabiners O&O with your belay device for less jamming and increased friction. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. There are many ways to set up a top … Oct 12, 2020 · Auto belays are a great way to get in lots of laps on a climb without forcing your friend or climbing partner to belay you over and over, or just a great way to work on top rope routes if you’re climbing alone. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. When I climb all the way up (top rope) and it's time to let go, I realize that I am 15+ meters up and this is the first time that the rope, my knots and the belay are tested. It is an autobelay failure because the autobelay doesn't have a partner check like a traditional belay system. Better for lead belay. The autobelay shouldn’t be different but lately, it’s becoming more…I don’t know. I know a couple, but they can vary from region to region. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. There is no case where you can not not be tied in. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! Main Question: Which ever you prefer more and will spend more time at will be better. Not sure why. A traditional belay system involves hardware at the top of the climbing wall that secures the safety rope. Also just understanding how the 'assisted breaking' works can help. They are noticeable by a long tethered lanyard attached by an industrial carabiner to a triangular and brightly colored mat near the bottom of the wall. Jul 29, 2024 · In fact, even if you’ve only ever known the “new way” of Grigri belaying, the Neox takes rope handling up a notch thanks to its rapid feeding and butter-smooth catches. It is completely safe for catching falls, but bonking the other climber isn't that pleasant. Petzl Microtraxion + Spirit Screwgate After testing multiple self-rescue rope scenarios and 5:1’s in a guided course using only friction hitches and belay devices, I purchased one because it’s so light, and having an efficient pocket ascender/rope grab gives me a little extra confidence. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? I like em for belaying. If it's easy to control the ropes, it's likely easy to belay and possible to stop a fall. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. The difference between lead and TR shows when I need to make a clip and it’s a crux clip. When belaying the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used, however in the event of a fall instead of having to "lock off the device" the belay does nothing and the device locks by itself. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. This auto-feeds in most scenarios. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. Auto belay will definitely continue to improve your top rope climbing if you can't go with your partner so just go for it. e. You should also become more comfortable rappelling because it's a pretty important skill to have. For lead climbing, a Grigri is more difficult to use correctly than an ATC; for top-rope climbing, the opposite is true. you are attached to the rope with a knot. Using a throwaway acct to avoid alarming people I know. I usually get those because my dog chews through the webbing eventually. Something to be aware of: there's a difference between an auto belay failing due to some design or manufacturing flaw and failing due to wear and tear. Overly Enthusiastic Belaying? Anyone have thoughts on belaying that might be helping too much with a climb? I've been climbing (mostly indoor top rope) for about two months, but I don't have a steady belay partner or group so I'm mostly on autobelay. You can do more hard moves at a building gym and have more control over rest and difficulty. Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). Running laps on it will not only build your endurance in a more enjoyable way than circuit boarding, but will also quickly improve your general movement and technique to support the other side of the equation. And yes we are scared of falling. So my partner was almost 40 pounds less than me. I'm pretty sure that there's nothing wrong with using a Gri-Gri for lead, as you can see it in use in most Sharma and Ondra videos :) I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. Hi, I'm based in Singapore but am in London for about 2. So, what's the difference between lead climbing vs top rope climbing? Below, we’ve compiled an in-depth guide to the five key differences between lead climbing vs top rope climbing. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. It’s super convenient to use at bomber bolted belays with a redirect when you’re swinging leads instead of switching from guide mode to direct belay. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. I enjoy climbing with a partner just because I do, and that dynamic is more present for me when an autobelay isn't involved. Nov 6, 2023 · When venturing into the rock climbing world, knowing the differences between lead climbing and top-roping is essential, and you often need a little help when telling the two apart. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. It was a locker on the gym auto-belay, just didn’t get it fully through the loop (my fault) one time and semi-closed on the loop itself causing the abrasion. Last night I did The belay loop is the best example. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. Jan 4, 2021 · What Does the Auto-Belay Device Offer? To better understand the value of an auto-belay device, we should briefly highlight a human belayer’s role. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. Tie it in an MMO or instantly lower someone if you need. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. However, when I look up comparisons between assisted breaking devices, they usually aren't compared in terms of safety, but in terms of convenience, ease of paying out rope, weight etc. I climb 1-2 moves up and clove the rope coil, my approach shoes and maybe a water bottle to the bottom to give it some weight. Attach a grigri to your belay loop and climb. Alexandria has three normal ones and a small beginner one. I set the line, rap down and coil up the extra rope. If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Jan 24, 2023 · You'll likely see them in most, if not all, indoor rock climbing gyms with top-rope walls. I pretty much never use a rope fatter than 9. I wasn’t a huge fan. Some people remove the little tab on the grigri and grind / sand it smooth so the grigri will orient correctly in a fall. If you do clip it to your belay loop, you climb, it reels up, you come back down safely. I also find lead falls to be safer at times because of no rope stretch on longer routes which avoids a deck on a ledge or the ground. I enjoy top-roping and would like to get a few sessions in while I'm in London. Why do so many people not like auto-belays in gyms? Personally find them super convenient for training. Bizarre it’s not standard There's little risk on top rope as long as you pay attention to your gear and systems when setting up and have a good belayer. Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. My fixed line is thick, semi-static line. I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. Feb 22, 2020 · Let’s look into the mechanics of the device to get a better understanding of how they work and why auto belays are a far safer alternative to climbing alone than free soloing. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Sterling has two, although both are on fairly negative walls. Here’s my problem, that situation is annoying at best and seems very unsafe at worst. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. Jan 6, 2023 · Get essential tips and guidelines for climbing on an auto-belay system, ensuring safety, and great customer experiences in climbing gyms. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. A locking carabiner takes the place of the belay loop and attaches to the harness via the same two points that cradle the rope when you tie in. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. I keep pulling them off the ground, sometimes even top roping. You unclip it, and tie it to yourself If you don't clip it to yourself, it reels to the top, you look like an idiot. Most injuries that take place in indoor climbing gyms are a result of bouldering. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I tied a prussik around the rope, then tie that into my backpack. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. I would start at the bottom of the wall and just climb up a little and then let go. But then augment at the rope gym to get route endurance before the outdoor season. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. I check it anyway, but if i forgot, i would want an auto locker. Every time I'm belayed by a human, it feels like cheating. In this article, we’ll walk you through what an auto belay is and if it’s safe. Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). don't use the belay loop with a rope. However, the most My friend always tries to stick to auto belay routes that are next to regular top ropes so that he can hold the top rope on the way down. I'm based in grad student digs near Victoria. 8 - 5. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Possible solutions would be to service the auto belay so the recoil moves with the climber, or to change the carabiner type to one that can not open against someone’s body. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? I use an auto locker for my belay device because it is just an extra layer of safety. Either is fine really, in canyoning it's not common to extend your belay plate right? The shorter routes, and not having to yell up a 60 foot wall at your partner is helpful in that aspect. At a rope gym, you are climbing at most 50% of the time (belaying 50%). A question about belay technique So sorry if I sound a bit ignorant but my girlfriend found out today that I've been belaying her on top rope as I would for lead. This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. And, for new belayers struggling with the Grigri’s strict auto-locking mechanics, the Neox is a much friendlier option. I went back to climbing a month after my injury, pre-surgery, and had a couple of ultra painful moments doing very innocuous toe and heel hooks on top rope, that I didn’t think would be an issue. So when a climber is on belay, the belay carabiner is loaded at three points--two on the harness and one where the rope slides. Building an outdoor climbing wall. These are from Guadalajara, Mexico Quick-draws : anillas jugs - cazuelas, cantos (I think Canto is used in Spain as well) mantle - mancle auto belay - yo-yo lead climb - puntear belay - asegurar rope, harness - cuerda, harnés route - ruta / linea one "try" (for a route/boulder problem) - "un pegue" boulder - bulder sport climb I'm looking to buy my first belay device. With the G+ that can be mitigated. Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. A fall on autobelay sometimes incurs some unintentional swing, and you don't want to knock someone else off their route. 7K votes, 163 comments. Jun 1, 2021 · Choose a gym that offers “auto belaying” since it’s a popular and safer type of indoor solo climbing. The Micros I save for SUPER thin half and twin ropes. Feb 12, 2018 · You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. And don't hop on an autobelay if someone is already top-roping the immediately adjacent rope unless they are really adequately spaced apart. Auto belaying devices are fixed at the top of the artificial wall. I find I can do harder grades top roping because I’m more comfortable making big moves with the rope attached, assuming my belay partner has all the slack. It seems like using this as a lead belay, you'd miss out on the ability of the belayer to judge how you need to be caught to make your fall safe. But the people you meet bouldering will be the same people that will belay for you on top rope. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. Reasons for not liking auto belays. Is there anything that's relatively easy to reach by public transport? I'm looking for a place with reasonable auto-belay facilities Think of this differently. The locking system is mechanical, similar to most assisted-braking belay devices, reliant on friction. I thought the same thing and I realised it was kinda silly, it's the same for bouldering no one will judge you if you're a beginner, just be aware how many auto belay there are because other people will also use the auto belay. Do any of the gyms within an hour of sac have auto belay or am I forced to talk to strangers? I have used the grigri for self belay on top rope a bunch and it seems fine. I’m wondering if practicing on an auto belay (since I have no climbing friends) to build my endurance/stamina and physical strength would be helpful to transition to bouldering? The idea is to have the psychological safety of the auto belay while I get into somewhat decent shape to start bouldering by myself. In my experience, the boulder guys like top roping too, but are in the same situation as you, and need a partner. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. I usually top rope with an experienced friend. The triangle mat usually says Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. Any rope 10mm and thinner should be fine in both devices. See a fair amount of anti auto-belay comments. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). The ATC Guide can be tricky lead belaying with thicker ropes, but so does the GriGri which will lock up. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Meaning instead of using 2 hands on the brake strand I just slide my brake hand up the rope as you would for lead. It's good because the black cover is an easy visual check that krab is correct and also removes any risk of the screw gate working undone. Jul 16, 2014 · Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows the leader to go almost hands-free while safely bringing the follower up to his stance. Assess the dangers and mitigate the risk. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. So how do they work? Sensors, software, and motors, which read rope movement and feed out/take up slack accordingly. If you make sure to thread the biner correctly when top belaying, there are no safety issues. on top-rope give a loose belay and then get comfortable letting go of the wall, and climbing without tension on the belay line. I got into a discussion with some friends today about which way the biner should be while belaying (if the wide end should touch the belay device, or your harness). Since I'm by myself, I was wondering other than bouldering, where can I go that has a few auto-belays for me. A belay system keeps climbers safe by connecting them to a safety rope and preventing a fall to the floor. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. If you’ve got an auto belay system then your already in a great spot. i didn't buy it for that purpose or anything, but i had some twisters and some autolockers and i put the twisters on my slings for going in direct and used autos for belaying. Jan 15, 2024 · Statistically speaking, the vast majority of auto-belay users leave our gyms unscathed. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anchor on multi-rappels. it seems like there are a lot of great bouldering places but i can’t see myself regularly bouldering that often! Dec 27, 2022 · Just know that trad climbing takes incredible knowledge and experience and is only performed outside. He still hates it and realizes he'd burn the shit out of his hands if the auto belay were to fail and he attempted to catch himself, but it helps mentally even just a tiny bit. If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? Go for the bouldering gym with day passes at the rope gym. Do either of them have a good gym attached as well with fitness classes offered? However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. 1. Make sure you weight the bottom of the dead rope! It's such an important factor to make your devices move smoothly. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. By keeping the rope taught and the micro traxion oriented upright the rope feeds through the devices seamlessly. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. The real distinction between top roping and lead climbing is the belay system used. Or a redirect off the anchor where the leader attaches the belay carabiner to her belay loop or rope tie in loop at the harness. The Harbor Freight auto belay is a little cheaper. An auto belay device is comprised of two main parts - the internal mechanism and the outer shell. I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. Thanks! Archived post. The biggest issues I've come across is when belaying the single rope can switch which side it is running through inside the device, a little annoying but you just have to be more attentive if the rope is a little coiled (can post picture if it's confusing). . This is a cool concept but I can see this being a bit of a nightmare in climbing gyms with begginer/intermediates. It's a bit like climbing on an auto belay in terms of how tight your devices are against the correctly weighted rope, there's obviously just no upwards pull. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. Lots of negative comments about auto belays. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. Everybody's different though, so if it's truly horrifying for you, then stick to bouldering and don't sweat it. Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Old gym in MA had tons of auto belays. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Plus I don't like climbing with 1 strand in my way, let alone 2. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. What is the practical difference between a harness with a belay loop vs. The auto-belay system has the cord clipped at an anchor point on the ground. Top Rope: Shown in the photo above, top rope climbing requires prior knowledge and experience of the follow through figure 8 knot and the GriGri belay device, which are attached to all top ropes in our facilities. Although some people that only use a single rope like to use them for top rope, single rope lead belay, and single rope top belay, and also carry an ATC belay device with a prusik cord for a backup friction knot for double rope rappelling. I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? Indoor top-rope auto-belay in Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe? Hi all I'll be visiting Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during the summer, and I'd like to visit a few indoor gyms to work off all the food I'll be eating. Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I… An auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require a rope, without the need for a belay partner. I'm sure the instructions that come with it include all sorts of CYA lawyer stuff, however. Bouldering remains the most dangerous form of rock climbing for most indoor rock climbing gyms. I personally find no difference on lead vs top rope when it comes to falling. At least that way they might feel more confident knowing they have a top rope backup. The Role of a Human Belayer In top-rope climbing, the climbing rope extends from your climbing harness, passes inside an anchor at the summit, and ends back at the belayer’s hands. My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. S. From there I'll attach a progress capture device on the rope and run the top of the rope up through a pulley and attach to some garage door springs. affix the ducks to my belay loop, the top held up with a bungee to a chest harness. Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). Similar to when I give a lead belay without glasses I am constantly taking note of my climber, my rope and my position relative to the environment. You can do way more distance and volume on top rope/sport/auto belay to get your endurance up vs bouldering where you will have good power but may burn out very quickly. FTR - I have never found rappelling or top belaying to be an issue. At the top of the wall, the lanyard connects to a large circular gadget that contains the automated belay mechanism. This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device—or “catches” the follower—if he falls. Sportrock also has a Facebook group to help find belay partners at either. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The home of Climbing on reddit. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. This prevents slack from building up in the rope, no need to stop and feed it through the devices. Before we get into the primary The ATC Guide (specifically the guide), when set up correctly, is an "auto-blocking" (not to be confused with "auto-locking") belay device for belaying a second. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). And almost all of these injuries are less serious than injuries from climbing on top rope, lead, or auto belay. May 28, 2021 · Grasp auto-belays' benefits in climbing: no belayer needed, ensuring safety, independence, and accessibility for climbers of all levels. I have seen opinions on how the Grigri is annoying to feed rope out with, but that the over-engineering means that even if I get pulled into the wall while belaying a heavier climber, or hit with a falling rock or something while belaying outside, I have that extra layer of locking/safety that passive devices like the Jul2 might not. When testing rope/belay device combinations, my goto is to set up a short rappel. What is Lead Belaying? Unlike top rope belaying, where the belayer’s responsibility is to take up the excess slack in the rope, a lead belayer manages slack for the climber. Being fearful of such accidents, I squeeze check the biner, pull check the auto belay rope and sometimes even jump off at 2 meters or so just to make sure I’m clipped in / the system is working. Here's what I'm thinking for a homemade auto belay system. Both Sportrocks have auto belays. I know about the bouldering spots around but find top rope more fun. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. One time my best friend was stuck at the top because of her fear of the auto belay. I just tip my head downward and look over the glasses when necessary, it's not rocket science. How much safer is a GriGri vs a Mammut Smart, Jul2, MegaJul etc Slam a carabiner on the anchor, put the rope through it and pull, quick flip of the rope and your partner is on belay, another flip and they're on a clove. The auto-belay itself is safer than the webbing and rope that comprise the rest of the system. hard based on the amount of rope it's put out, but it won't know about any other hazards on a route. However, lately I've been doing quick sessions alone in my spare time using the auto belay system. It's missing a key safety feature. A grigri can fail if oriented upside down. best top rope/auto belay climbing hi! i might be moving to pittsburgh for school soon and was wondering what gyms are the best for top rope climbing. That makes you safe when pulling down the rope for the next rappel. Let us explore some of the pros and cons of auto belays. I'm going to install a rope system for belaying. There are instructions for leading solo on a grigri online. While they offer many benefits, there are also drawbacks to using an auto belay. Then a couple of sites had threads regarding twisting the rope (belayer walks around climber once before starting climb) to create similar friction as wrapping the rope once at the top anchor. 11 votes, 14 comments. Don’t be God damn it was so much fun. When I’m belaying with another person, checking everything is automatic because I have to tie in the rope, check the equipment of the belayer, etc. Like the harder moves to me are easier than bouldering because it’s less scary mentally. 2 though. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. For top managed belays, when I'm following, I prefer: An indirect belay off the harness where the leader ties in tight to the anchor with her rope and attaches her belay carabiner to her rope tie in loop at the harness. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. I don't mind autobelays, but I've been in a gym where there are no top rope walls set up and ONLY autobelays, which I don't like. Lower yourself with the grigri's lever when you want to descend. We are currently using a grigri ( they struggle with it and lead belaying cause small hands), and an ATC ( works well just no lockout) We’re looking for ideas and suggestions instead of tying off to hard points on the rock ( hard catches and they take a whiplash), them wearing a The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. Is there anything unsafe about this? 310 votes, 227 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. What this means is that if your second/follower falls, the rope will bind in the device on its own. Is it possible to climb an auto belay wall by top roping or lead? In my experience, either the AB cord would get in the way or there wouldn't be any top anchor for top rope climbing, as the auto belay would be there. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. Could anyone recommend a few places with some bouldering and top rope routes? If they have the auto-belay system that would be great. So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. In defence of the belay master we use it when we're clipping kids into the rope for top roping for speed. I tried to come up with a better analogy, but the best I could do is: It's like riding a tandem bike by yourself and only having control of the front brakes. Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. they are quick, easy, and the auto lock is nice so you dont have to worry about forgetting to screw it closed (although you should obviously ALWAYS check your belay/rap biner to make sure it is locked). It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect… I've mixed rope diameters for DRT but only a small diameter difference. khpff nojclz mpdhzem rhsjpna lcnvcv ubzk ucfplw npcoan vuek rholj