Best belay carabiner. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. The middle row are the light/compact style, and the bottom row are the belay specific lockers. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. Carefully considering factors such as gate type, shape, strength, weight, and size will help you with making your decision. Long Answer… Brands have been churning out dedicated belay biners for years now. May 4, 2021 · Out of habit, many climbers always reach for a large, pear shaped, “HMS” belay carabiner anytime they are belaying. The Rhino carabiner makes an ideal belay carabiner with its incredible 6,069 pound load capacity and wide basket. Feb 22, 2024 · Common Uses. Remember to always check and double-check the carabiner and belay system before each climb. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Lighter and faster to use but less secure. ” May 20, 2020 · Best Carabiner For GriGri Plus / Best Carabiner For GriGri 2. It will help prevent the carabiner from rotating while shifting the load to the carabiner’s spine and not on the gate. Our team of climbing experts The best carabiner for belaying ultimately depends on personal preference and specific climbing needs. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. . The best carabiner for belaying ultimately depends on personal preference and specific climbing needs. It’s tricky to lower smoothly, especially without belay gloves. Aug 15, 2019 · All of the lockers tested for our Best Locking Carabiner Review, with a Petzl Gri-Gri two for size reference. They are commonly used with belay and rappel devices. DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner. Oct 12, 2023 · Best Uses. Short answer - DMM Ceros. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t May 9, 2024 · Among the carabiners we tested, the RockLock Twistlock is on the heavier side. 4 grams. If you are using the older GriGri with a fairly thin rope, we’d suggest the Petzl Freino to help add friction when lowering and rappelling. Locking Carabiners. How Many Do You Need? Types of Carabiners for Climbing. By Carabiner Size. This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Large carabiners are typically easier to handle and easier to clip (they have larger gate openings), and they can hold more gear inside. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. The DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner is – quite possibly – the best belay carabiner ever created. The DMM Sentinel is designed to be used with the DMM Bugette belay device, so it's perfectly able as a belay carabiner. This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. They come in different shapes and sizes, but for GriGri, the D-shaped carabiner is the best one. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Other Related Information Sep 14, 2020 · Comes in three colors – orange, purple, and grey. If you’re the type that likes to keep it simple, any locking carabiner will do the trick. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. This is actually where the acronym “HMS” comes from — the German word for a Munter is (with typical German bombast): “Halbmastwurfsicherung. And our best belay carabiner has a built-in swivel and can withstand more than 400 kg (4 kn) of force. Mar 1, 2023 · The design of the carabiner is also essential when pairing it with a GriGri. Belay carabiners are great for dedicated sport and trad climbing use. Same story on rappels Oct 1, 2018 · As a belay 'biner, it's not as chunky as I'm used to – but, that's a personal preference. E. It has a nifty “horn” along the back spine that helps prevent cross-loading and a generous gate opening that doesn’t create problems getting your rope in or out. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Carabiners come in a variety of sizes. Used in less critical areas, like quickdraws or racking gear. Description. However, some are streets ahead of others, and some are just plain unfunctional. Non-Locking Carabiners. Espresso Note. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. April 2020. On top are the HMS/pear style. All of these carabiners will work with all of the different versions of the device. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. belay carabiner (wide top reduces rope binding especially during rappel, larger rope-bearing cross section for smoother belaying and less kinking) anchor power points (larger size allows for easier organization) Typical Price Range: $11 – $40. Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. Active Braking Devices Jul 11, 2024 · Locking Carabiners. Aug 31, 2021 · HMS ‘biners tend to make the best belay carabiners. Learn how to choose a belay carabiner based on gate type, weight, price, and rating. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Black Diamond's classic RockLock ($15) is a beginner favorite due to its versatility and durability. May 28, 2024 · Passive braking belay devices like the Mammut Smart 2. Oct 1, 2020 · Find out the top five belay carabiners for climbing, with features, pros and cons, and comparison table. Without exception, you should always use a locking carabiner in tandem with a belay device. On the flip side, the twistlock mechanism of this carabiner is among the best we've tested. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Smaller carabiners are lighter and take up less room on your rack, but they can be harder to clip. Belaying with any style of belay device (indoors or out) Anchor carabiners for outdoor sport climbing or trad climbing; Ice / Alpine / Winter climbing – Screw gates tend to be the easiest locking style to finagle back into action if/when they freeze shut. Carabiner This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. Subtypes: Screw-lock, twist-lock, and auto-lock. Weight Range: 44g – 250g. If you're looking for a carabiner to buy a few of, or something for alpine climbing or multi-pitching, this might not be the carabiner for you. 0 have a similar structure to standard tubular devices, but in order to catch the climber, they turn upwards to snag the rope between the carabiner and the belay device. Feature a locking gate for added security. Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. There have been four GriGri designs on the market: – The Best Belay Carabiner. (In case you’re wondering what “HMS” means, it’s an acronym for the German, “Halbmastwurf sicherung”, which loosely translates as “Munter hitch belay” carabiner. The Kimjee® anodizing aluminum carabiner for dog leash only weigh 23. Used in critical connections like belay setups and anchors. Their wide baskets make for easy setup and smooth feeding, and the width is also necessary if you ever have to belay off a Munter hitch. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate). Read Time - 2 minutes. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. Petzl Attache. Nov 9, 2023 · The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. Aug 15, 2019 · The best belay locker due to ultra-secure gate and durable stainless insert: The longtime standard as the best locker for all purposes: A lightweight, simple, twist-locking offset-D that performs better than the rest: Our Best Bang for the Buck winner due to its great price, but also its impressively lightweight Apr 3, 2019 · The last item on our best carabiner list is another entry from DMM.