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Alpinesavvy aac Feb 27, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. COM @ALPINESAVVY 12 TOP CLIMBING TIPS FROM ALPINESAVVY. May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. Here's one that works for me. ) A few zip ties. This is a terrific tool for near real-time trip planning in the backcountry, because you can see snow level overlaid with roads, trails, contours, and your intended route. A Unicore rope, made by the French company Beal, bonds the core and the sheath together, resulting in a rope that has much greater resistance to catastrophic damage. . Jun 23, 2024 · It has a 6. by Jared Ogden. AlpineSavvy. ” Nov 24, 2023 · In the pack: Mountain Hardware 40 liter pack. Feb 3, 2019 · For you engineers and physics folks out there, an Alpinesavvy fan on Instagram (@jared_vilhauer who's way smarter at this stuff than I am) calculated that: If you have a 50% efficient carabiner on the tractor, your real world mechanical advantage is 1. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. It’ll never increase, provided you keep your membership current. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus. There are a lot of companies out there that can help you make a website, get on social media, or design a flier. Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. The Cutting Edge podcast brings to life stories from the pages of The American Alpine Journal (AAJ), the annual publication of the American Alpine Club (AAC). Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Here’s a DIY gear trick that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Ship of Fools. Jan 2, 2025 · Here's a trick that saves your rope, using gear you probably already have. Use it as a quick lunchtime shelter, a more serious overnight pit shelter, and a toboggan-style rescue sled. 8-inch touchscreen display, produces high-resolution audio, and supports different media formats, including FLAC, MP3, WMA, and AAC. Lincoln (NE): iUniverse: 2005. Standing at the base of Shipton Spire, Mark Synnott and I shivered silently, neither wanting to tell the other our fears or doubts about the climb we were about to begin. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr Feb 8, 2024 · Alpinesavvy thanks Angelique Brown for translating the French technical documents mentioned in this article, Richard Goldstone for editorial comments, ACMG Alpine Guide Sean Isaac for some FAQ details, and IFMGA Certified Guide Patrick Ormond for a few extra fixed point belay tips. Sep 1, 2021 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Shot Tower, Northwest Face and Other Peaks, Arrigetch. Sep 19, 2018 · What’s a “triple locking” carabiner, and why might you want to have a few? Well, pretty much every arborist or industrial rigger has a few on their gear rack, so you might want to get some too. Softcover. If you spend a lot of time backcountry skiing, you might want to carry a rescue tarp. Let's learn a few clever tips for setting it up for maximum comfort, from the experts at Graybird Guiding. Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. It works best when you have a long tether and a well Nov 1, 2023 · There are many approaches to crevasse rescue and many choices for what gear to bring. I know that some people will want a compass with a sighting mirror and possibly a clinometer. B. I recently came across a nice video from the meticulous gear testers at Edelrid. Apr 8, 2025 · Tools and materials to make an ice tool tether: 12 feet / 4 meters of 1/2 inch tubular webbing. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi hook to an adjustable tether. The knot is on the skinny red rope side of the anchor. Plus, get the new 2025 member tee! You're out climbing at the local crag. org⬇️ 加拿大： 班夫（Banff）山地电影节和图书竞赛你大概听过，冰皇will gadd也在这儿。 Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Sep 23, 2018 · Best - Suunto MC-2. Find a GPX track file of your route. if you had a 90% efficient pulley on the tractor, your real world mechanical advantage is 2. Sep 8, 2018 · The AAC is certainly not saying that every sport climber should start to do this on all routes tomorrow, nor that it’s best in all situations. Tax ID or EIN: 13-1611981 Dec 18, 2018 · Ski rescue sled tarps. Method 1: basket hitch. Now the sling is loaded over the edge of the crack, not the carabiner. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. Oct 21, 2022 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Nov 4, 2024 · The technique allows everyone to check each other’s rappel setup, and it provides other safety and efficiency benefits, including the fact that only one stopper knot is needed at the end of the rappel ropes. A climber atop one of beautiful granite boulders that sprinkle the area was lowering his partner when the unthinkable occurred. Here 's an innovative new option which is lightweight, very compact, easy to set up, and quite inexpensive. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Knowing your route usually starts with a GPX file, which is a standardized format for sharing geographic data. Kenwood DDX6906S: This car stereo is a great choice if you’re looking for something with a lot of features. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. Slope angle shading is a very cool feature of CalTopo, the best backcountry mapping software. Clean the gear. Jun 28, 2019 · Dunham Gooding founded the American Alpine Institute in 1975 and has taught courses and guided expeditions in the Cascades, Canada, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Patagonia. In the midst of talking about his dozens of different gloves, at 4:17 he casually mentions, “The best all-around glove I probably use most days are these fishing gloves from Japan . Be sure belayer is holding your weight. Feb 21, 2019 · What beginning snow climber has not cursed the clanking cowbells and the strangle, tangle and dangle of pickets, hanging from ill-placed runners around your neck and shoulder, threatening to trip you up at each step! With nothing more than a cordelette and two carabiners, the “alpine block and tackle” creates a bit of mechanical advantage that can help you move a large load a short distance. Each episode, we interview world-class climbers just back from a wild new route or expedition, with in-depth discussion of the tactics behind the climb, along with the highs and lows of these adventures. Learn a few here. Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - If you want to use one, the first choice is diameter and length. Starting September 2024 with an iPhone 14 or newer (and the latest operating system, iOS 18) you'll be able to send non-emergency SMS / text messages via satellite when you don't have Wi-Fi or cell connectivity. When you finish a single pitch sport route, should the last climber rappel off, or be lowered? The debate on this can get pretty hot and heavy, but the momentum is swinging towards lowering. Feb 19, 2021 · I first heard of these from IFMGA certified guide Silas Rossi, in a YouTube video he made about his glove systems. Consider steel zip ties, they are stronger and can hold up better in cold weather. This incident occurred at Mt. Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture / ratchet is a critical part of a hauling system. However, carabiner design has changed a lot over the years, and now we have LOTS of different styles. Twenty-five days on a Karakoram giant. Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. While it can depend on local ethics and anchor Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. If using a sewn sling, you can tie an overhand knot in each end of the sling, creating two redundant strands. There are lots of devices you can use, and they vary greatly in terms of weight, cost, and most importantly, friction. Rainier National Park made a clever decision matrix to help remove some emotion from this important choice. The climbing rangers at Mt. Some 2 mm cord Here are detailed tips to keep your phone running longer in the backcountry: changing some phone settings, navigation tricks, and cold-weather protection. Instruction from a qualified professional is highly recommended when learning any new belay technique. All content is 100% free - no ads, no paywalls, no paid product promotions, no affiliate marketing links. The “pre-rigged" (aka stacked) rappel . If not cordalette, I use a 240. Use a “sacrificial” sewn sling, cord, or tubular webbing. "Alpinesavvy is a top-notch resource for both reliable tried-and-true skills and techniques as well as the latest and greatest tricks and tips that should be on every climbers radar. The first few times you use ascenders it’s pretty scary, and you probably want every possible shred of psychological safety. Alpinesavvy offers ideas and information, not advice. Jul 20, 2018 · I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. But for the AAC to make an official policy statement on this is a pretty big deal, many instruction schools and guiding companies are doing this already. Jan 25, 2025 · Here are two ways to handle this. Woodson near San Diego. In 2022, Apple introduced satellite texting for emergency services only. And, when you can see your route in 3-D with high resolution satellite imagery, it gets even MORE better! Here’s the general workflow, with a longer explanation below. Climb better, safer and smarter with an Alpinesavvy Premium Membership. Sep 19, 2018 · Two quickdraw sport climbing anchor with non-locking carabiners. ️ My website has no ads, paid product promotions, affiliate marketing links, or brand sponsorships. 35 May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. 3-4 - Call for take/tension. Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. Oct 22, 2023 · Alpine Savvy's post. You can also get heavy duty zip ties that can hold about 200 pounds/100 kg. This “crochets” a rope into a series of short chain links, reducing the length by about a factor of six. And, having that route on your phone with a quality GPS app like Gaia GPS is another plus. Practice vertical rope techniques with a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Weekly coverage goes back to 2017, so you can also compare snow lev. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. They all share a few common design elements: a spring-loaded toothed cam that lets the rope (or device) move in one direction but not the other, and a high efficiency, sealed bearing steel pulley wheel (aka sheave). ️ 550+ climbing tips and navigation resources. The AAC is certainly not saying that every sport climber should start to do this on all routes tomorrow, nor that it’s best in all situations. Cancel anytime. From single pitch sport climbing to multipitch mountaineering Alpinesavvy has something for everyone. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. “Articles Only” is a more affordable option for website Sep 19, 2018 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. 95. Click around south of Australia in Antarctica, and see why compasses are often useless for polar explorers - near the northern and southern magnetic poles, compasses start doing some pretty crazy things! Jul 18, 2023 · Lost? Don't rely on this old-school method . The basic requirements are 1) being able to climb the rope if Sep 28, 2024 · Starting in 1948, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has published an annual summary of reported climbing related accidents in the US and Canada, titled “Accidents in North American Climbing” AAC members get this for free. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. • MODE D’EMPLOI Veuillez lire avant d’utiliser cet appareil. No long-term commitment. 01%, that is a good thing, the reasoning goes. Do you speak up? If you don't speak up and somebody Sep 20, 2018 · As we like to say at Alpinesavvy, having a map or photo is great, but having a map or photo with your route drawn on it is much better. Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. 5-6 - Call for “ready to lower”, lower off. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. Jan 1, 2024 · An oval carabiner was the first shape that was widely available to modern recreational climbers. ALPINESAVVY. Curated instructional videos. Basket hitch a sling to the cam sling or thumb loop. But you never want to do this on an “open” sling, as the rope can easily become completely unclipped from the carabiner without you noticing. It’s more relevant to mountain rescue teams and big wall climbers than to alpine climbers. Both of these features are found on the Suunto MC-2, which is the next model up from the M3 in terms of the whistles and bells. Feb 3, 2019 · Pulley diameter and rope stretch do affect your hauling efficiency. It’s handy for lots of different reasons, and we cover them in detail in this artic Nov 17, 2018 · It's fun to click around in places that have some pretty crazy declination, such as New Zealand and up in northern Alaska and Canada. Mike Biarzi, Savvy Saunders, Roman Dial and I were landed at Circle Lake on July 18. Jan 22, 2021 · (Reminder, AlpineSavvy has zero affiliate marketing. (This is a free preview from Mark's new online class class on alpine climbing. ️ Alpinesavvy - Helping you climb better, safer, and smarter. Dec 23, 2018 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. (If you climb a lot on snow and rock, you might want to get one for each. Aug 27, 2024 · A monthly accident report sampler from the American Alpine Club Skip to Content Jul 11, 2024 · Yeah yeah, everyone knows climbers need to hydrate properly to perform well. Pay month-to-month. Aug 31, 2023 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . Untie your rethreaded fig 8 knot, and pull the tail through the anchor. Check out the High Mountain Gear Taco, handmade in Seattle WA. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. Hans Kraus lived the life most of us dream of. ) C American Alpine Club, 710 10th Street Suite 100, Golden, CO, 80401 303-384-0110 [email protected] 303-384-0110 [email protected] Jan 10, 2020 · For a solid overview of snow climbing fundamentals, check out this article from the American Alpine Club (AAC). (The AAC also publish a monthly accident report “sampler” on their website, called “The Prescription”. It’s big enough for a full guide kit or bigger ski mountaineering objectives but can compress down for more average days. With 3 (or more) people, a pre-rigged rappel lets two people rappel at one time, each on a single fixed strand. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. The American Alpine Club @americanalpine has published an annual report of North American climbing accidents since 1948. "Pull Skinny", or "PS", means pull the red skinny rope to retrieve it. Aug 13, 2021 · CalTopo now offers weekly high resolution satellite imagery. But do you know the interesting physiology behind actually why this true? There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue, and a near infinite combination of gear that you could carry. The pros and cons of this technique are well explained in this article at Alpine Savvy. and a few problems. Gates on the quick draws are facing away from each other, or outward. For the complete article: 1) Go here: MP3/WMA/AAC CD Receiver CDA-9884 • OWNER’S MANUAL Please read before using this equipment. ) Apr 22, 2020 · Michael Gray Interesting! I prefer cordalette as it far more versatile (7mm, because as Alpine Savvy has pointed out (https://www. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. See 400+ more climbing tips like this at AlpineSavvy. We can be your go-to tech advisor. Alpine Savvy. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. Each membership is critical to the AAC’s work: advocating for climbing access and natural landscapes, offering essential knowledge to the climbing community through our accident analysis and documentation of cutting edge climbing, and supporting our members with our rescue benefit, discounts, grants and more. alpinesavvy. If the knot migrates, it'll stop at the chain link. Here's my crevasse rescue gear list. Lowering from sport anchors (Diagrams from @petzl_official) . But, there’s three reasons why this is not the preferred method. Jan 10, 2019 · Bonus speed trick: the safer simul rappel. 🙏 Thanks! . Learn all about it here. If you do them wrong, you could die. (Have a look at their “Edelrid Knowledge Base” on YouTube, they have lots of goodies there. Oct 16, 2020 · Wait a sec, I heard you shouldn’t a Grigri for trad climbing, because it increases forces on the top placement . Jan 16, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. " Ian Nicholson AAC Office Mailing Address. There are some standards, but which one you pick might depend on what kind of climbing you’re mostly doing. 400+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist. $21. This makes the bottom gates opposite and opposed and also mostly keeps the bottom gates from potentially messing with each other. The links are provided only for your convenience. Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. You see another person (not your partner) doing something that's potentially dangerous. 美国登山协会AAC官网持续的发布全球攀登新闻，每年出版一本AAJ年鉴--记录全球的重要攀登，金冰镐的攀登也会总结在这里americanalpineclub. He has served as chairman of the National Summit Committee on Mountain Rescue, president of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), and president of the Outdoor Industry Association. Alpine Savvy r t n o d e o p s S 0 e l t 6 7 l c l 2 e l t 2 1 h t c , l 0 3 7 b 2 1 c h c i 9 1 r i 4 1 9 m 9 e 9 D 2 8 f f i 1 · Shared with Public Nov 26, 2018 · CORRECT set up. Oct 21, 2019 · As we like to say at Alpinesavvy, having a map is great, but having a map with your route printed on it is even better. 12 feet / 4 meters of 1/8 inch elastic cord. Moving one way lengthens 3 while shortening 2 so net tension increases. Share this article Jan 14, 2019 · Using a belay device in this manner is not explicitly approved by any manufacturer, as far as I know. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. A clever Alpinesavvy fan on Instagram (@govanathon) shared this: “3 stands on one side of the sliding carabiner, 2 stands on the other side. Susan E. com/blog/cordelettes-what-length-and -diameter), the breaking strength between 6 and 7mm is almost doubled in just 1mm of diameter). Dec 13, 2022 · Long lengths of skinny rope, such as a 6 mm rappel pull cord, can easily turn into a hopeless tangle if you're not careful. As we head into rock climbing season, let's look at lowering versus rappelling. A daisy chained rope is pretty much impossib May 10, 2022 · For a multi day big wall climb, you're probably going to need a portaledge. 306 pages. Schwartz. Take an elastic hair tie / scrunchie, and wrap a few times around the strap. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. com . After you crank Sep 19, 2024 · Black Diamond recently collaborated with IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley to test the strength of different snow anchor configurations. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. That was groundbreaking, and it's about to get a big upgrade. • The Alpine Savvy website describes a useful technique for overlaying current snow levels on your planned route on Google Earth. There are various ways to keep your crampons strap tidy. Premium Members get even more. Solution: the daisy chain. “Resection" (aka triangulation) praised in just about every navigation book, is a method of using a map and compass together to theoretically get yourself Share your videos with friends, family, and the world Feb 2, 2019 · Placing a prusik hitch above your rappel device might initially seem like a good way to backup your rappel. Good point! One possible concern with a Grigri and trad climbing is that the Grigri can put more force on the top piece of protection when catching a fall. “All Access” gets you ALL the goodies. Jun 28, 2022 · Check out what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley takes for a two day Rainier climb up one of the standard routes. Join now and lock in this low price. ) Premium Art Jul 30, 2018 · Safety note: Having a rubber band or something similar to prevent the bottom carabiner on a sport climbing quickdraw from rotating is fine. Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . 500+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist. The American Alpine Club ATTN: Development 710 10th Street, Suite 100 Golden, CO 80401. 8-inch touchscreen display, built-in Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, USB and HDMI Nov 28, 2022 · A regular climbing rope is made with the core and the sheath as two separate components. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. Use this at your own risk. There are some pros and cons to this style of carabiner, plus a trick to easily open it with one hand. If that carabiner on top can lessen the chance of the ascender coming off by 0. For the complete article: 1) Go here: Sep 20, 2018 · As we like to say at Alpinesavvy, having a map or photo is great, but having a map or photo with your route drawn on it is much better. We had 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. Some of the results were pretty surprising! Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This is free Mar 19, 2024 · This month we have an unreported accident from a few years ago. com - Get skilled, stay found. Coat hanger Jun 21, 2019 · Despite access to solid weather forecasts, deciding to continue on a climb or bail is often a challenging and subjective decision. Clean sport anchors by lowering - New AAC guidelines. Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. Oct 22, 2023 Feb 12, 2019 · I get it. a. Accidents in North American Climbing - what other countries have this? . It has a 6. Jun 26, 2021 · A floorless, pyramid style tarp tent has some advantages over more traditional mountaineering tents when it comes to camping in snow and multi day ski tours. You need light weight, multifunction, and hopefully be able to combine it with other people on your team to have an effective rescue. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn aro Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. It's written by two expert guides (Dunham Gooding and Jason Martin) who absolutely know Give it a save and follow @alpinesavvy. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. k. Inspiring mountain photography. yvykdxrmuinaeddvevljmqdksatpuuthiiutksjlvudexwmylbpbsbgrnwa