Climbing pas vs sling reddit I personally use 1. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Reply reply des09 Details are still sparse but from what I remember, a non-redundant webbing/sling master point (single loop) cut. Posted by u/scaredofshaka - 25 votes and 90 comments I also personally don't bother with a dedicated PAS, I just use a sling and a locker-- maybe do that for now (it's cheap, and both things can be infinitely repurposed) until you have some mileage? Once you've climbed a bunch of routes you can either decide that that's plenty or figure out that a PAS is worth buying for you Aug 9, 2016 · A personal anchor system (PAS) is a piece of climbing gear meant to secure you directly to the anchors of a route. I think I saw a chain-style PAS made out of these slings too, but it was weird because the rings were way bigger than normal PAS rings. Sewn slings have been around for a long time in climbing. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? The PAS 22 is made with double-wrapped 11 mm Monster webbing. 17oz, depending on which Oct 30, 2018 · A PAS is much more use, lighter and easier to carry. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems) that could get pretty crazy. Add the limiter knots for some redundancy against the sling itself failing if you like. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. If you're sport climbing, in most cases there'll be two bolts, or chains or something - you can (usually) clip a quickdraw to each, and then I would consider it completely wrong to say you should never use nylon, but I wouldn't start out planning on using a sling. While there are a variety of ways this can be done, personal anchor systems (PAS) have become popular over the years due to their simplicity, adjustability, and multi-purpose use. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. It is often considered reasonable practice to use slings/PAS but you do accept a little more risk in doing so. Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. I would consider it completely wrong to say you should never use nylon, but I wouldn't start out planning on using a sling. Have fun and be safe my dude. If you have the knowledge to use a sling, that would be more cost-effective, but for most climbers, investing in a PAS is a safer and simpler option. Jul 10, 2023 · A purpose-built PAS like the Metollius PAS 22, Connect Adjust, or Sterling Chain Reactor is perfect if you prefer to have a specific tool for a specific job. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l Avoiding the possibility of falling onto your sling being the obvious thing to do, and if you're cleaning, you're probably just sitting in your harness with a static load on the sling. Jun 29, 2013 · Metolius PAS 22 – fitted around my waist perfectly. There's a very specific danger when you shorten it by clipping an inner loop, but as long as you only clip it in a maximum of two spots, it should be safe. Apr 24, 2023 · Figuring out which one is best for you in the personal anchor system vs. Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. While there are many methods of connecting to an anchor that do not require a PAS, there are also many benefits and functions that PAS offer. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. All these anchor systems rely on the belay being built with an equaliser and power loop. What kind of cams? Some can be reslung yourself, others are better done professionally. 12c-ish plateau. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. Also worth considering. However, I can't imagine I would want to unwind the whole thing, use it to anchor myself in, and then wind it all back up when I'm done. This is because slings do not absorb much energy – think of it as similar to falling when attached to a length of steel cable. The DMM website has some awesomely helpful videos testing the impact forces generated in factor 1 and 2 falls during likely scenarios, both personal anchor and belay systems, illustrating that in most cases, using dyneema is the least Let our team of climbing experts help you find the best climbing shoes, top climbing harnesses, and climbing ropes for your needs and budget. But mostly just a long sling girth-hitched to my harness with a locker on the other end. . 5 can vary from 0. Keep slack out of your static anchors. 8. I know plenty of people that like theirs, but the only thing I think it really does better is sequential hanging rappels. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Adjama Is my go to as well. Keep in mind that the PAS and dynex slings you mentioned are made out of material that has very little to no stretch. The most common alternatives to a PAS are: Below we discuss these popular alternatives and link to some great how-to videos. What confuses me is that the image shown clearly says that using a locker on a figer-8 on a bite into the belay loop isn't safe, but that how you would want it in certain situations, since it would be no different that catching a climber while belaying. I tried a Metolius PAS a while back, and had an issue with quickly finding the end loop- not a problem with my daisies or my slings. Opinions differ as to whether this is necessary or not, though I lean on the side of adding them. And I gotta say, I like the Petzl Connect Adjust much more. Draws or slings, whatever you happen to have on you, I would rather be clipped by two draws to two bolts than by a single PAS to a single bolt. When used properly, these systems can be safe and strong, but when used improperly, they can lead to Sorry in advance, but I don't have any videos to link at short notice. Because of its chain-link-style construction, it is safer, more convenient, and more adjustable than using slings, quickdraws, or daisy chains at the anchor. PAS make a strong, secure, tested way to connect yourself to an anchor without using the rope or other gear like slings or quickdraws that you might need elsewhere. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. Mar 8, 2011 · All you need is one sling, nylon preferable for some extra stretch in the system. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. This means that if you try and adjust the length of a daisy chain with a carabiner, the force exerted on you leaning against that carabiner could These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. You can skip the locker for a draw. Sep 1, 2023 · At times, there was only a difference of a single gram between different slings, and even if you multiplied this difference by 10 (for the number of slings you might carrying on a route), 10g in the best case, or 190g if comparing the lightest to the heaviest (19g x 10 slings), is still only a difference of . Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. IMHO - The Daisy has been around a lot longer and folks that have been climbing for a while use the daisy out of habit. All you need to decide is how you want to do a rap extension. A purcell prusik is slightly less popular, but arguably better than both the slings and the PAS, as it's slightly more dynamic. All the loops on a PAS are fully rated, where the Daisy is only rated for body weight only. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. You can damage internal organs with just a 10kN force – falling onto a sling directly is likely to be much higher than this. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. This comes with a large end loop with which you larks foot to your harness. htmlDYNAMIC PAS - Strength: 15 kN (3372 lbf)https://www. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together The Tindeq allows you to measure maximum voluntary contraction at each given time, whereas with weight on a loading pin or sling you're limited to the MVC of the last second of the last rep. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. IME, the mammut liked to tie itself into knots and was more likely to pigtail itself into oblivion. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. Think about it: Either way you are not stuck in the system whether you tie in with the rope or with a PAS, right? Edit: That didn't come out right. The plastic on the bottom of the belay loop makes it really sturdy and the gear loops are super awesome- they make your quickdraws slide forward. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Very much the case. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. I use both a PAS-22 and the Purcell-Prussik, but this is just for peace of mind. ladders -cordalette vs. But, remember your climbing rope is dyanmic, a PAS is not. The give of the rope will be your friend. While the main application of the PAS is to tether a climber directly to an anchor or bolt independently of the rope, it can also be used in other ways. Why do you want a PAS as opposed to just a couple nylon slings, girth hitched to your harness? You don't need to buy a sewn prussik loop, you can tie a prussik loop for yourself with 80 cents of 6mm nylon cord. Ease of use*** If you build the anchor out of clove hitches, i. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I learned in an institutional climbing course that daisy chains are meant for aid climbing and don't hold up to safety standards for a PAS, each pocket or "loop" is only rated to 2-3kN of force. 5x the single line rated load. I have lots of exposed hiking and roped-climbing experience in the Rockies and feel very comfortable in vertical terrain. A sewn kevlar sheath is the best option, but a tied 5-6mm nylon prusik loop is fine. The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. DMM video to prove it. Will deploy… Much more flexible than needing to knot slings to shorten up. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. I've also tried the typical chain-link style PAS things (like Metolius). As such, many new climbers learn to use a PAS these days. i. on a 2 bolt anchor, you can take your end of the rope, clove to the left bolt, pull an armload (or so) of slack, clove to other bolt, tie a figure 8 on the bight between the bolts, slap a locker on it and you now have an equalized and redundant anchor to bring up your second, and it took you around 30 seconds to set up. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. It's difficult to go and check the ropes out in person so i'm hoping to get some advice here. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Sewn slings are safer, holding larger forces and don't depend upon the quality of your knot 2)Sewn slings are less clumsy. The home of Climbing on reddit. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Popular examples of these PAS climbing safety systems include the Metolius PAS, the Petzl Connect Adjust, the Camp Swing, and the Kong Slyde. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. 5 and the 9. Hi Climbers, i have been climbing for about a year and now I feel like I have enough experience and psyche to spend some money on making a good sport… Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home 1. It's not at all surprising to see the load decrease significantly throughout the rep and set. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. I have yet to discover a single downside compared to other systems. Slings come in a variety of lengths, widths and weights. Completely redesigned PAS with 11 mm (0. In most cases, when people are talking about tying in with the rope as opposed to a PAS, it's when tying into an anchor for multipitch climbing. The difficulty is that I live in Japan and getting ropes is pretty difficult. Using knotted webbing for your PAS is just as safe, if not safer (easier to inspect) and the PAS isn't some magical device that makes personal anchoring super neat and cozy, it's just as good at doing that as a knotted sling. This is done using the PAS and two locking carabiners . the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. Edit to add: don’t use prusiks. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an I'm filling out the final details of my sport rack and I'm looking at Petzl's Connect Adjust as an alternative to a personal anchor system. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. The most common scenarios for using a tether are cleaning anchors and multi-pitch climbing. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. rope anchors -etc So you basically have to just try out what feels best for you, or talk with someone who has experience in these things. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. the possibilities are endless you'll find something you like in the long run we all do and moast of the time it's DIFFERENT So I own a PAS 22 and love it for its convenience, but recently have read John Long's Climbing Anchors and he explicitly warns against tieing into… At certain points in the broader activity of climbing, you have to secure yourself to an anchor without the use of the rope, and up until recently that meant using a 60 cm nylon sling girth-hitched to your harness. I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. If you clip the PAS to the master point of a good anchor, then your anchor is redundant but your attachment point isn't. Jul 10, 2023 · A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. if it is, you did something else very wrong. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Bad things (can) happen. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. com/pas_personal_anchor_system. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. Just use a bunch of quick draws or a sling or a sling with a locker or a sling with both bolts cliped into the system or 2 slings or or or. I like the Purcell Prussik because you can do super safe transitions from tethering to rappeling—pushing the prussik up until your weight is fully in Since i don't really have a climbing shop in the neighbourhood. So, additional margin of safety. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. One or two draws works fine. PAS or slings are a faster option. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Jun 15, 2012 · Traditionally, climbers have anchored to the belay by tying in directly with the rope. Jun 29, 2013 · A personal anchor system or PAS is a system that anchors you to the belay and this article focusses on this. Replacing it with your own tied sling will weaken the thumb loop in a fall, potentially kinking or breaking the thumb loop. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Mar 2, 2023 · PAS make a strong, secure, tested way to connect yourself to an anchor without using the rope or other gear like slings or quickdraws that you might need elsewhere. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic What you're doing is fine. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). If you accidentally shock load this gear (factor 1 fall), the adjust has the stretch to not wreck you whereas you will generate a great deal of impact force using the PAS. I did not harness up, but I did wear approach shoes (hiking shoes but with climbing rubber) for this one and was glad to have them. Similar to a daisy, a PAS attaches to the harness using a girth hitch but instead of a hook or non locker, uses a locking carabiner for a more secure connection to an anchor. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. The anchor itself was a single very large boulder with redundant loops, going to the non-redundant master point, which I think was for extension over the edge? Personally, I think the whole static vs. , be that cloved in to a regular connect, on a separate basketed sling, or using one of the dual versions. Swarmi belt vs harness) or decrease in safety (not using SLCDs). It isn't the strength, it's the fact that you will have more friction and rubbing with the loose pieces. My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. I have the Togir harness and I really like it, it's awesome quality and a good fit for me. Similar to a daisy, a PAS attaches to the harness using a girth hitch but instead of a hook or non locker I belay with the grigri like a normal tube device, until my leader has to make a high clip. Mar 13, 2019 · One of the necessary pieces of equipment for sport climbing outside is a personal anchor system, or PAS. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. 35oz to 3. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. After cleaning overhanging anchors in space a few times, hanging on just the PAS-22 is mentally uncomfortable for me. Now, many prefer the convenience of personal anchor tethers specifically designed for this purpose for belays, as well as for cleaning the top anchor on a sport climb or anchoring during multi-pitch rappels. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. For example current and previous generation BD cams with the thumb loops have a special tripled up sewn sling. metoliusclimbing. It may adjust when being weighted though. No one tests climbing gear as extensively and thoughtfully as we do, and our review ratings make it easy for you to make smarter, more informed, purchase decisions every time. it was more durable though, and handled better when it was cooperative. Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. There's a decent deal on the mammut crag classic but i'm torn between the 9. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. ) I’m old-school. Also, rope is longer in case anchors are further away than your PAS can reach. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Since then I've been doing 5 sets of 25secs on each hand, front 3 open hand, as my warm up on my bi-weekly climbing sessions. Examples: -daisy-chains vs. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. Harness with via ferrata, rope, or nylon sling/lanyard is If you're just climbing sport, then you don't need slings or anything special for a PAS. the entire alphabet, with multiple variations under each choice. 43″) webbing that now passes the CE/UIAA Sling Standard. Substitute the sling with a PAS system and it's even more practical. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. It's just too inefficient. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Where as a 60cm or 120cm sling girth hitched into a harness, or Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS) is the same rating no matter where you clip into it with no risk of accidentally coming off the system. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. Thanks! ive had one mammut and 2 beal ropes. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. ASCII diagram: * * C C \ O C O O O O me (* are bolts, C are biners, O are the loops of the PAS, \ is the dogbone of the quickdraw going left, the biner at the end of the PAS is a locker, the PAS is girth hitched through both of my tie-in loops) Length of a PAS for Climbing. 3 to 0. ps: i like to clip the excess sling on the strand i have to pull for the next rappel. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I now have no pain when climbing or pressing on the pulley directly, so there's been an improvement. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Obviously if there's wear and tear it'd be a no brainer, but I'm unsure if the age of the slings themselves would require you to swap every single one. Stitching in a daisy isn't nearly as strong as a sling however. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into the anchor, keep the sling weighted so you can't fall on it. There’s a technique I’ve come up with of holding the carabiner like an ice cream cone while People do that. I started at 2. Sling placement as PAS? : r/climbing - Reddit true There are specific detergents intended for ropes and slings, but generic detergent or chemicals are not guaranteed to leave gear in good shape. (I used a daisy until this last week when I bought a PAS). Jan 12, 2023 · Many climbers choose to forego the PAS (Personal Anchor System) and instead connect themselves to anchors and rappel devices with different methods. The PAS 22 was great for multi pitch abs and clipping into belays. Any good scientific approach to a question involves a hypothesis, and mine is that the Sliding X is a stronger choice than the Cordelette, giving said parameters. Then I do the index finger under the tab and thumb on cam as petzl recommend, throw out 1-2 arm lengths of slack in a second and I'm back to gripping the brake strand only like a normal ATC. PAS -etriers vs. Pretty solid package to start my gear c Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. (Make sure it is a true PAS made of a series of individually sewn loops {22kN}, not a Daisy which is one sling sewn into a series of shorter loops and only suitable for aid/bodyweight {2kN}!) Used a PAS for years, for multi pitch, alpine and the top of sport. Final potential use I see is as a PAS, they could be good, but if you're bringing a dedicated PAS, might as well use a chain-style actual PAS. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. Big wall talk at campsites can go on for hours between climbing parties Mammut is a high quality brand and their gear is good, i find some features aren't well thought out, a glaring example being the bum zips on the bibs being a multi step operation to open and close and not possible in a harness. These spell it out perfectly. I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. And yes we are scared of falling. Mar 2, 2023 · A personal anchor system can be a handy tool in the toolbox for climbers. There are few things for which i am certain, but i'd bet money there isn't an all around better system. easy-aiders vs. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. B is a little easier than A vs. Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. I need a rope for outdoor climbing on mostly lime stone, slab routes and 'stairs'. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Yup, I'm just using 2 separate 60cm slings right here. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. e. As others have said. I am looking for a 60m rope mostly for indoor climbing. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. A daisy chain is generally considered a bad choice. but on the whole is a very good brand, just gotta check if the specific piece is fit for your purpose. I got the trango sport climbing package on sale for $142, came with 10 draws, 4 locking biners and the 2 60cm slings. One of the benefits of using a PAS instead of a sling is that you can make it as long or short as you need it to be for each individual anchor that you are clipping into, at least up to the length of the PAS. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things Let our team of climbing experts help you find the best climbing shoes, top climbing harnesses, and climbing ropes for your needs and budget. I have both the Petzl Connect Adjust and the Edelrid Switch Adjust (along with a couple other adjustable lanyard style PAS. Easy way to do it for me and how I teach new climbers is the two loops you tie into are "soft-gear loops" where you tie in anything that is soft, ie webbing, PAS, rope, etc, and the belay loop is your "hard-gear loop" where you attach anything metal, which is generally just carabiners. no anchor/fall use. There are intense fall forces on slings for factor 1-2 falls. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. When I’m rappelling off a route, I’ll use a couple of shoulder slings to tether myself in at each anchor. The Edelrid is difficult to lengthen unloaded, I’ve tried six different locking carabiners of different shapes and diameters to try to improve this, but not much luck. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. Jan 19, 2023 · PAS is an acronym for Personal Anchor System that refers to a sewn piece of gear a climber uses to connect themselves to a climbing anchor. May 17, 2022 · PAS 22 - Strength: 22 kN (4950 lbf)https://www. However, for other climbers, a knotted sling is ideal because they simply clip a locker carabiner into the end of the tether and use it to attach themselves. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. The weight of multiple climbing-quality biner can add up quickly. If you want to go dynamic the 4kn force limiting characteristics of an adjustable PAS like the petzl connect will do more for you in a worst case scenario. What type of sling are we talking about and what type of belay loop? There has been at least one recorded case of a thin dyneema sling slicing a belay loop when a climber fell on it from max extension. No one can test every possible set up, or crunch the numbers on them either. Personal anchor systems are most commonly used when cleaning a route (removing gear from a climbing route). Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. Also, an actual human falling like that creates much less force because we're kind of squishy and soft - even us climbers. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). I want it to be longer so I can use the rope for occasional outdoor climbing as well. A friend just got a new one, though, and I see they've started making the end loop a different color. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. A PAS is a critical climbing tool because it allows you to safely transfer your body weight off the climbing rope and onto a climbing anchor or belay station. The most common secondary application is extending a rappel. But you get what you pay for. It's also easy to setup the PAS for extended rappel, weight the ATC and do my last check before coming off the Purcell. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. In this article, we’ll review the need for a personal anchor system while climbing, alternative Of course 1 person(the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. A Metolius PAS (chain of full-strength loops), possibly connected via a quickdraw or something to a second bolt, is another popular choice. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! Oct 31, 2016 · I've been using various things for a personal anchor while sport climbing. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Posted by u/IncognitoBadger - 9 votes and 42 comments To your question: You don't need all of that. But, round 3 of the newer bags look pretty pedestrian, or heavily borrow from other bags. sling debate is generally simple. A vs. The city sling was one of the cooler bags that got me into this whole bag thing, and their travel pack 2 was the few sequels that out did the predecessor. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. I belay with the grigri like a normal tube device, until my leader has to make a high clip. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. They can be necessary when cleaning gear off a route, before lowering or rappelling, or when backing up an existing anchor on a multi pitch or big wall climb. Feb 2, 2023 · Which PAS you choose has a lot to do with the type of climbing you’re doing and the situations you plan to use them in. webbing vs. metoli I use a clove in the rope whenever possible but. 6 million pounds. Check out this Climbing Mag post. They are, in total, usually around 1m or a little bit less in length, with each loop around 10-15cm in length. This changed a few years ago when some enterprising product designer came up with the idea of a variable-length personal anchor system. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Just starting outdoor climbing. I clip in with draws when cleaning a sport anchor, I don’t wear a helmet when I’m sport climbing, and I use just the rope with a clove hitch to tie myself into the anchor when I get to the belay of a multi-pitch climb. 5kg (which felt easy to begin with) and now use 10kg with ease and without discomfort. It could also break the sling, or the anchor. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Sling Length. That said, if you don't put yourself in a position to fall on it, then you have removed that danger. when you’re doing a multistage rappel or leading in blocks on a multi pitch it’s nice to have a purpose-built, easy to adjust PAS system. However, I'm a little leery of the security of the tie-in point (the part you girth hitch into) as I've never seen that kind of connection before and it doesn't seem to be tested in their safety sheet. 5 meter rope tether. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've never seen anyone use a sling, so I'm prejudiced against it. I want this to be a training rope that I can just work the crap out of at the gym for the most part. Actually this image is almost identical, safety-wise, to clipping your PAS to the master point while multi-pitch climbing which is what the PAS is designed for. We have group tested all the current systems (bar one) on the market to see what the advantages and disadvantages are: Using the rope. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. dowfd yfkmc jvk jmbk xsobmb yrz owpok mvrpexti bhvf sbtm