Climbing cams Force applied to the sling rocks the curved edge and forces the point into the rock. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. May 3, 2011 · Additionally, the range on these cams is among the lowest of all the cams that we tested making it necessary to carry more cams if you're building your rack completely of Friends. The beefiness mentioned above makes them great for aid climbing, and the thumb loop lets you clip in higher than cams without a thumb loop. Worldwide shipping. Shop tri-cams. Beyond saving. Apr 9, 2021 · The DMM Dragonfly has been on the market for the past few years and has become one of the must-have micro-cams for thin cracks. Apr 15, 2020 · These cams possess a “just right” stem rigidity for ease of deployment and resistance to walking. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. I’ve used the cams often and they’ve all seen a handfull of A spring-loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. 5") - most cams with cable eye or rigid stem . Retire your cams if the cams have been damaged in a fall, if the cam teeth are worn away, if the tailpiece or crossbar is cracked, if the stem cable is frayed, kinked or damaged in any way, or if the springs are weak or damaged. Video of Cleaning Cams. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. Mar 23, 2012 · Zap some wd40 between the cams and axle(s), then continuously trigger the cam to work the oil in- after a few moments the grit and crap will start to loosen and ooze out. The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. I prefer a four-cam design like the Metolius Master Cam or the X4 that feels more bomber, is less likely to walk, and works in pin scars better. A friend or cam is a safety device used for securing alpine and sport climbing routes. They stick to the exact same color scheme as Black Diamond cams, which is likely the most familiar cam color scheme in the world, so not only do they mesh seamlessly with those cams, but don't require learning a new scheme. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. 5 Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing #1 Top Rated. They’re generally easier to place and clean, and they are more versatile in cracks that vary in size. In this harsh environment, the steel parts will also corrode, even if they are stainless steel. Reslinging a cam is not a money-making venture by the manufacturer or pretty much anybody else. On that note, Wild Country has reduced the number of cams in its line-up with the Helium Friends (by increasing the range and the overlap of ranges between units Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. So it's not surprising that I'd climb on 10 yr old cams with original slings before I'd girth hitch a sling to the cable. Learn how to choose the best cams for your trad rack based on size, weight, price, and performance. Aug 8, 2022 · Know when to use a cam. Feb 12, 2024 · Steve Levin, in Climbing No. -Please Make sure your cams are clean and all older slings removed. 34" to 1. The more experienced leader isn’t buying it (and doesn’t want to buy a new cam, either), so he raps down to investigate—and cleans it in three seconds flat. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is used. The Climbing cams are essential for your trad climbing rack - check out our full range of cams to create your ideal rack. The stems on the C4 are also rigid enough that in a pinch, you can just shove them in a parallel crack without even pulling the triggers. HB Flexi-fix, Omega Link Cams, Metolius Master Cams; Ultralite Master Cam (add $1. When you get even a tiny amount of movement from the cams, the parachute cord girth hitch will take up any slack in the trigger wires, and pull the cam towards you at the same time. Placing Cams. Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology. This means that the Metolius cams will likely be more durable. I own doubles of blacks and blues and within a year of use all 4 cams have started to have frayed load bearing wires. While climbing on a windy day at the City of Rocks in Idaho, our lead tester noticed the finger-sized Master Cams blowing upwards with the wind. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. Black Diamond. Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. Over our years of testing, we've amassed quite a collection of climbing gear and have plenty of recommendations, from the top-rated climbing harnessess and ropes to belay devices and climbing helmets . . Part of what makes the Aliens stick so well in little placements is the soft metal, so there is a pro and a con there. This allows you to slide the unit inside a crack. Apr 4, 2025 · Find out the best climbing cams for different sizes, styles, and budgets based on expert reviews and testing. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. 4. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. This will prevent a rope from “zippering” out the gear if it comes under tension. Without a doubt, cams have revolutionized climbing. Welded. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5, #6, #7 and #8 View Details Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. Oct 31, 2024 · If you're using climbing nuts, you'll probably want to purchase a nut tool to help retrieve wedged nuts and stuck cams. At the start of a pitch, always place a solid piece of pro that will resist outward and upward pulls. Here is the (now outdated) Rock Empire Robot Cam Review; “Cams Start at 36. Apr 10, 2024 · Nicest cams to use out there and feel very solid even in wierd uneven placements. Sea-cliff climbing presents an added challenge to keeping your cams working smoothly. With increased holding power and reduced walking capabilities, the DMM Dragon Cams particularly excel in slick or soft rock types and in sub-optimal placements. Sep 9, 2013 · I really like this climbing cam in some applications but am not ready to commit my whole rack to them like I have with the Black Diamond Camalot for the bigger sizes. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. CAMS-A Technical Review (Article circa 1985) by John Middendorf . 3 mm. Tube Chocks May 15, 2018 · Omega Pacific Link Cams stand out as offering the widest camming range of any cam on the market thanks to the trisected cam lobes, meaning where another company will only have one cam to fit in a placement the Link Cams may have three cams that can fit the same placement. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. but action, range, lever/trigger usage). The Alien Revolution excel on granite, whether you're aid or free climbing. $6 Single loop 4. Before sea-cliff climbing, make sure your cams are well lubricated. Apr 24, 2019 · Yates reslings nearly all cams including Wild Country, DMM, Aliens, Metolius, Totem, and Black Diamond. In comparison to nuts and pitons, cams "actively" hold their position in the rock. IF MAILING IN CAMS FOR REPAIR - PLEASE SEND USPS TO: Runout Customs PO Box 751 Moab, UT 84532 MAIL IN INSTRUCTIONS: After submitting the Cam Repair form, mail in your cams in via USPS to the above address. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. Seiji Ishii is the Climbing, Cycling, Fitness, Travel, and Powersports editor at The most common piece of active pro is the cam. Jun 15, 2020 · The new RigidFlex stem design also aids in these cam's efficacy while free climbing. The Dragonflies are awesome for free climbing. Aug 12, 2024 · Free Climbing. I climb frequently with a partner who has some old cams and I dread having to use them when we swap leads with his rack. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. Range 0. The Fixe Alien Revolutions are the latest iteration of the popular cam pioneered by Colorado Custom Hardware. “The action was really smooth, and I had reliable, solid placements with every type of fissure and pod—and a lighter pack to boot,” exclaimed one Eldorado Canyon, Colorado tester. The six colour-coded units cover placements from 7. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. 4 : Sports & Outdoors Feb 25, 2015 · Of course, cam size is extremely important in places such as the crack-climbing destination of Indian Creek, where individual pitches often require up to 12 of the exact same-sized cam. Cam Stop. Sep 8, 2024 · The generally accepted maximum lifespan of soft goods like nylon, Dyneema, and yes, slings on your cams, is around 10 years. If you decide you don't like them or to stop trad climbing, you can sell them easily. Price, product page $399. 95 The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. Apr 9, 2023 · It could weaken the cam’s nylon sling slightly. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. 4 – 28. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Sep 5, 2016 · 4. Jan 4, 2015 · Use a nut pick(s), concentrating on the points where the tip of the cam lobe (not the curved part) hit the rock. Our cams tend to get the most beat up during aid climbs, where every piece gets weighted, often in strange positions pushing the limits of their designs. . 95” This statement, taken from Rock Empire's website, could stop a trad climber's heart and simultaneously empty his wallet (they're so cheap, I can afford more!). jvmged jnm evgoe gwyb avijc uynlo vvpnm xciclcv redkn pxsm xwwl qjhxg piihvl bklp qddt