Auto belay meaning com Feb 6, 2023 · An Auto Belay Device is a type of automatic belay device that prevents slack in the climbing line as the climber ascends. Auto-belay devices allow climbers to climb without the help of a belay partner. Follow these steps to use an auto belay: Pull down on the auto belay sling and This video is about best practices when using an auto belay device. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. You, the climber, simply clips into the end of the webbing that comes to the ground using a locking carabiner, and as you climb up, the device at the top uses either friction, hydraulics, or magnets to keep you safe if you fall or when you’re ready to come down. If the climber falls or reaches the top, the Auto Belay immediately arrests the fall and lowers the climber safely and automatically to the ground. Dec 22, 2010 · Hydraulic auto-belays are large and heavy and can't be moved around easily, meaning that they must be maintained onsite, and they're not modular, meaning that potential future upgrades can't be retrofitted. This is one of a series of instructi Jun 21, 2021 · As evidenced by Hesse’s death in 2014, auto belay accidents do not discriminate between the experienced and inexperienced. For many climbers, the tendency is to think of this growth in terms of building new climbing gyms, but that’s only one piece of the puzzle. Auto-belay meaning that there is no need for another person to belay the line for the climber so the kids could climb all by themselves after a brief training course. There are three different techniques for belaying: top rope-climbing, lead climbing and auto belaying. Fun fact: Perfect Descent has the only approved auto belay device for IFSC Speed Climbing events. Helmets must NOT be worn. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is the only auto belay to utilize magnetic eddy current braking technology, which offers benefits in addition to reliability and cyclic endurance. Assisted-braking belay devices (also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices) are designed to lock down on the rope when a sudden force is applied to it to help the belayer catch and hold a fall. Having an auto belay in your gym frees up your staff to attend to more important matters. Most climbing gyms will mark the auto belay boundaries. The auto-belay takes up the slack in the line as the climber ascends the wall and the counter weight gives them a slow and controlled descent. Climbers must be 13 or older to use the auto belays independently – younger climbers must be clipped in and out and supervised by an adult. As climbing continues to transition from a niche adventure sport into mainstream popularity, other facilities such as such as FECs, fun climbs, and rec centers are increasingly becoming the initial touchpoint for many climbers’ entry into the sport. You don't have to take our word for it. Jan 15, 2024 · Photo: CityROCK. . youtube. It should take Jan 19, 2022 · And unlike with a human belayer, you can’t even yell and get mad at the auto-belay machine to tell it that it’s doing it all wrong. Loose clothing must NOT be worn. Our Auto Belay is the VERY first Hydraulic Auto Belay safety system in the Amusement industry. BEFORE use complete the auto belay form. Pull down on the auto belay webbing, ensuring that the webbing retracts. Increases throughput The OnBelay increases throughput by reducing the time needed for one climb compared to manual belaying. BEFORE climbing always perform a belay tape retraction test. When the climber reaches the top, or falls, the auto-belay immediately arrests the fall and lowers the climber to the ground in a Sep 29, 2021 · Perfect Descent’s auto belay represented a paradigm shift. Do not climb outside the belay zone. ONLY use the auto belay if you are within the weight range 10kg to 150kg. 6m) per second, Speed Drive™ is ideal for speed climbing and competition, dynamic routes, interval training, and fitness routes and circuits. Belay System Costs. Durable, light and upgrade-ready! Self regulating magnetic braking system Designed for indoor or outdoor use Handmade in the USA with high-quality parts If selecting TRU-CLIP Connector, additional Key Links may be needed for optimal coverage. More Information and recommendations: https://alpenverein. ” Feb 12, 2018 · Belay device – I’ve been to gyms where you test belaying on your own ATC device or use the devices set on the climbing gym ropes (usually a grigri, which is an assisted braking device). Although the frequency of auto-belay-related incidents is relatively low (compared to the frequency of auto-belay usage without incidents) — the severity of these incidents has caused many gym managers and owners to become extremely concerned. The auto belay induction should be treated with the same level of seriousness and respect as a roped climbing induction. I once wrote a script for a skit parodying “Free Solo. Figure 8 belay devices are simple and require more force from your hands to slow down your partner. From the beginning it was designed to have a safe climb up and a smooth and safe decent without the use of a secondary person belaying you. A Tubular Belay device. This article delves into the various aspects of auto belay safety, from understanding climber behavior to employing the latest innovations in auto belay systems. If your gym regularly hosts events like birthday parties, it's much easier to train parents to clip kids into an auto belay than it is to train them how to belay all together. There are two major braking technologies found in the vast majority of modern auto belays: Friction braking; Magnetic braking See full list on thewanderingclimber. Mar 13, 2023 · 5. But what do you mean by a centrifugal force? It is actually a force created when an object spins or moves in a circular path. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber and ensure that they do not While each auto belay manufacturer adjusts the tension of their retraction springs to slightly (though noticeable) different specifications, the major differentiator is found in the auto belay braking system. Do not climb faster than the auto belay is able to retract. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Essential tips for indoor climbing, focusing on top-roping and leading. The most tested and trusted auto belay in the world. May 28, 2021 · When utilizing an auto belay for the first (or 100th) time, the most important thing to remember is that you must clip into the lanyard and locking carabiner for the auto belay to work properly. With a retraction rate of 4. Oct 12, 2020 · Auto belays are belays that don’t need another person on the other end. Auto-belay. 2 AUTO BELAY INDUCTION For people who are not roped climbing competent (or fail the auto belay test) a specific auto belay induction is required. Most of the accidents have happened when climbers were well into their climbing session. In top rope and lead climbing, the belay line is a rope and provides the same "safety net" function as in the auto belay, but the rope is controlled by the Jan 11, 2017 · Just kidding, the Auto-Belay system basically works like the seat belt in your car. Mar 23, 2025 · Belay devices. de/38335 You must be 5 years of age to use the Auto Belays and children under the age of 10 must use a full body or chest harness. Clip a rounded or non-rounded biner through the master point and then the large loop, called the anchor attachment point, on the device (A) , which will be oriented with Low Maintenance, High Value: Minimal maintenance requirements and a low cost of ownership mean that TRUBLUE IQ Auto Belay is an investment in both safety and economy Customized Connections: With four webbing connection types available, TRUBLUE IQ Auto Belay seamlessly fits the unique needs of your climbing facility. May 24, 2022 · Still, the easy-to-use auto belay quickly becomes the friend of many rope climbers as it provides a safe and accessible way to climb long routes by yourself. They are also a great stamina building tool; if you drop off the wall, you will lower in a controlled manner down to the ground (meaning that you have lost all the progress made up the wall). These feed the rope smoothly and make life easy on the belayer, but don't work with all sizes of ropes. These are primarily used for rappelling and Jan 30, 2020 · Koske offered some statistics, saying that there are over 1 billion climbs on TRUBLUE auto belays per year around the world, and that there are more than 30,000 TRUBLUE auto belay devices currently “in the field,” meaning at gyms, adventure parks, and other climbing walls in more than 60 countries. Our Auto-Belay systems will make getting up the 40 foot wall hassle-free! Designed to lower children and adults at a slow, controlled rate, these devices are safe and easy to use. Purchase a day pass and rental gear, get a 5-10 minute orientation on how to use the Auto-Belays properly, and away you go! Day Pass Pricing Jan 12, 2017 · With an auto belay device, the belay line is a piece of webbing that connects the climber to the auto belay and supports them if they fall or when they are ready to lower off a route. The process becomes automatic and effortless. Now you can climb even more in less time! After a quick no-cost orientation, you’ll be set to get climbing. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. 6 meters per second, even the world’s fastest speed climbers could climb without having to think about whether their belayers could keep up. Many different types of facilities Our Auto-Belay systems will make getting up the taller climbing walls hassle-free! Designed to lower children and adults at a slow, controlled rate, these devices are easy to use. Purchase a day pass and rental gear, get a 5-10 minute orientation on how to use the Auto-Belays safely, and away you go! Day Pass Pricing So my takeaway is that this isn't so much about auto belays working or not, but how gyms are teaching climbers how to use them. Some gyms test on both the ATC and grigri so knowing how to use both may help you pass. This makes the TRUBLUE the most widely used auto belay with more cycles-to-date than ANY device on the planet. ALWAYS check the auto belay is correctly attached. They prevent slack in the climbing rope or line by automatically and mechanically taking it up as the climber ascends. The system essentially guarantees safety for the climber. The great majority of contemporary auto belays use one of two main braking techniques: Braking by friction; Braking with magnets The meaning of BELAY is to secure (a rope or cable) by turns around a cleat, pin, or bitt. Automatic belays do not require a human partner and are controlled by a separate control unit. Jan 6, 2023 · The auto belay braking system is what distinguishes one auto belay manufacturer from another, even though they all alter the tension of their retraction springs to slightly (but noticeably) different specifications. That's why the TRUBLUE is TRU. Never climb alongside or above the Auto Belay. How to use belay in a sentence. to secure (a rope or cable) by turns around a cleat, pin, or bitt; to make fast : to fasten down; stop, cancel… Jul 16, 2014 · To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device; at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges. Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. Meaning they had been moving from one auto belay to another doing climb after climb. Auto belay setups allow solo gym climbers or the odd-person-out to wall climb safely without a human belay. However, if you are interested in the mechanics of the machines, here is a brief explanation of the mechanics behind the two most popular auto belay brands: Tru Blue and Perfect Descent. An auto belay system is significantly more expensive than a traditional belay system because it is a very technical piece of safety equipment. Today, the auto belay devices that you see in many rock climbing gyms are made for climbers and have stringent safety standards. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a The popularity of indoor climbing in particular has skyrocketed in recent years, driving huge demand for climbing wall access across a variety of facilities and, in some cases, kickstarting entirely new industries. ” In my skit, the Alex Honnold character enacts this common complaint of auto-belay machines not making you feel secure before you let go. Active adult supervision is required for any child under the age of 13 who wishes to use the Auto Belays and supervising adult must complete and pass Sportrock’s Auto Belay orientation and test prior to usage. In simple terms - generally no helmet, the reason for this is that the auto belay relies on it being weighted for it to operate, should someone descending the wall snag their helmet on a hold then the auto belay will be unweighted and the climbers weight taken by the helmet and, more importantly, the helmet strap which could cause panic and a ABC auto belay competency test. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is priced competitively but also has a low cost of ownership over time because TRUBLUE features reliable magnetic braking technology with fewer wear parts. Hence the word, Auto Belay started. There has been a lot of chatter about auto-belays in recent months, both in the media and behind closed doors. Do not climb a route outside the auto belay boundary. Auto Belay Prices. NEVER retrieve a fully retracted belay tape. Once someone has been belay certified on top rope and auto belay, staff do not check every person once they leave the ground… that would be intense and I guarantee that climbers would hate it. Unlatch the webbing from the belay gate, and lock the carabiner into your belay loop. Your two eyes are your only double-checking mechanism. An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. In these units, auto-belay devices typically utilize friction brakes or hydraulic brakes as a braking technique. There are a variety of different types of auto belays for sale, and price is always a factor when considering which auto belay to buy. We have 14 Perfect Descent Auto Belay systems installed, with at least two climbs per auto belay. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. The webbing gets pulled up into its housing, and once it gets weighted by the climber it uses the climber’s own weight to create centrifugal force within the housing resulting in a smooth controlled descent. Feb 1, 2022 · The belayer progressively takes in slack as the climber ascends. Dec 2, 2015 · Some gyms provide belay services for climbers without a partner. Here’s how a climber uses Catch-and-Hold belay: Step 1: Before climbing, assess your harness. Auto-Belay Devices. You will likely spot a TRUBLUE auto belay system or a Perfect Descent auto belay device in your local gym. The installation cost for each system is the same. In this episode: tips on how to use an auto belay. “This pause will allow us time to participate in industry conversations as they relate to the continued use of auto belays and make decisions on when, how or if they will be reintroduced into our facilities. The secret is our friction-free, magnetic braking technology, which gives the softest, safest, most consistent catch available on the market today. It was first introduced back in 1993; we call this first system, Generation 1. Head Rush's patented magnetic braking mechanism allows each device to adjust to each climber weight and create a consistent descent experience for everyone alike. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. Although climbing gyms have different policies, all share one key instructional ingredient: clip the auto-belay into the belay loop of your harness. Best for: Sport climbing, gym climbing, multipitch trad climbing. Rather, the staff walk around and pay attention to belay technique, watch the cameras etc to make sure everyone is doing things properly. Nov 2, 2021 · Auto-locking belay devices detect sudden motion and lock down on the rope for you automatically. I mean sure, safety is worth more then the price of a The OnBelay is an air-over-hydraulic auto belay device that eliminates the need of a belayer when climbing. Aug 20, 2013 · Full Playlist: https://www. The XL Belay Gate is 40% larger than the original Belay Gate, allowing route setters to more easily cover up starting holds and minimize the risk of The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is the only auto belay to utilize magnetic eddy current braking technology, which offers benefits in addition to reliability and cyclic endurance. Still, the belayer must always The auto belay has some lag before it starts retracting and I fell on that moment, with 30cm or so of slack. Typically, this tarp is clipped to the auto belay sling with a second carabiner and set on the ground after the climber is clipped in. Tip: Most belay devices have diagrams on how to thread the rope May 28, 2024 · How to Use an Auto Belay . In a friction-based auto belay, a drum brake is an essential device component. “Perfect Descent was not the first auto belay I saw, but they were the best,” says McColl. Most indoor rock climbing gyms with auto belays have a tarp or barrier indicating the start of the route. Sep 23, 2016 · In the auto belay scenario you lack an extra set of eyes. Retracting at a lightning fast 15ft (4. Jan 24, 2023 · So how does an auto belay work if you don't need another person to belay you? Well, as its name implies, the mechanism is an automatic belay device. Belay System Inspection, Care and Maintenance. Assisted-Braking Belay Devices. Jul 15, 2021 · Curious what you guys think, our gym is now removing their auto-belays (I assume as a response to both law suits and recent accidents). Mar 2, 2023 · This type of braking system of an auto belay relies on centrifugal force to control the climber’s speed during the descent. The article does state that the climber did an orientation, which again leads me to think this is a climber problem first rather than an auto belay problem. Sep 21, 2023 · Manual tube-style belay devices in guide mode are considered “auto-blocking” because they will automatically pinch the climbing rope in case the follower falls. Jun 30, 2023 · Auto Belay Safety is paramount in ensuring that climbers can focus on scaling new heights with the confidence that they are adequately protected. The TRUBLUE auto belay has been commercially sold for seven years, exists in over 36 countries, and has performed nearly 500 million climber descents. Feb 22, 2020 · The TRUBLUE auto belay system uses magnetic braking and has a minimum/maximum weight of 22 and 330 lbs respectively. Make sure you’re double-backed and ready to climb. If you require faster retraction speeds, you should consider using the TRUBLUE Speed Auto Belay. Both belay systems need to be properly inspected and maintained. Jan 3, 2023 · HOW DOES AUTO BELAY USE DIFFER BETWEEN FACILITIES? Climbing gyms are not the only facilities pushing climbing popularity to new heights. But, says Zimmerman, "They're utterly reliable and really proven in terms of how many years they've been out there. If they come off the rock, they won’t fall far, if at all. TRUBLUE Auto Belays offer the widest weight and height ranges of any modern auto belay system. The original fast-retracting auto belay sets the standard for quality and performance. Complacency and brief lapses in attention or focus can mean the difference between remembering to clip into the auto-belay lanyard or not clipping in at all. It is possible to out-climb a TRUBLUE auto belay due to the lag caused by the magnets trying to recoil the slack, but they are one of the most popular auto belay systems on the market today.