Best belay carabiner Thankfully, the Mammut Smart 2. D-shaped carabiner still works fine, but the operation varies with the way the rope sits. If you’re the type that likes to keep it simple, any locking carabiner will do the trick. Making a safe belay position is a very important skill. May 7, 2025 · Belay devices should always be attached to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner for security, but have the annoying tendency to flip sideways before catching a fall, occasionally cross-loading them along the wrong axis. On top are the HMS/pear style. You use it in conjunction with an assisted belay device. D Sep 15, 2020 · Read our top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to the deluxe belay experience. While the price isn't out of line with performance, we would prefer to spend the same amount of money on a better product. There have been four GriGri designs on the market: – The Best Belay Carabiner. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. Sep 21, 2023 · In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. All of these carabiners will work with all of the different versions of the device. Other Related Information This was my first belay device ever. BlackDiamond GridLock Belay Screw Gate paired with the GriGri is bomber. The DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner is – quite possibly – the best belay carabiner ever created. Moved Permanently. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. The tool is designed to be very solid, safe, and effective. 2mm on down) ropes I like the Ocun Condor HMS, and other carabiners like this like the DMM Ceros and Metolius Gatekeeper. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. I learned it in just under a minute, my kids know how to use it, and I am sure that, with a little extra effort, my dog could belay with it in a pinch. Learn how to choose a belay carabiner based on gate type, weight, price, and rating. Carabiner Size. Carefully considering factors such as gate type, shape, strength, weight, and size will help you with making your decision. Short answer - DMM Ceros. Absolutely bomber May 28, 2024 · Passive braking belay devices like the Mammut Smart 2. Oct 1, 2020 · Find out the top five belay carabiners for climbing, with features, pros and cons, and comparison table. 5-11 mm. Jun 10, 2019 · The DMM Ceros is virtually impossible to cross load, which adds a higher degree of security while belaying. The document has moved here. The middle row are the light/compact style, and the bottom row are the belay specific lockers. Also, incredibly versatile, you’ll find it wide enough for belaying as well as anchor usage. If you’d like to read more about how the GridLock Magnetron compared to the other locking carabiners we tested, check out our article on the best locking carabiners. 0 out of 5 stars The best, most idiot proof, belay carabiner ever. Oct 31, 2018 · If you’d like the safest possible belay carabiner, this would be a good candidate, but in our opinion the sacrifices are too hefty to make the GridLock worth it. Remember to always check and double-check the carabiner and belay system before each climb. Feature a locking gate for added security. Black Diamond's classic RockLock ($15) is a beginner favorite due to its versatility and durability. This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. It's built for ropes between 8. Espresso Note. Carabiners come in all shapes and sizes – HMS, Pear, offset D, and more. The Jan 22, 2025 · No need to carry a belay locker in your pack; Orientation is “built in”—device stays reliably upright on your belay loop; Belay action is close to the body and ergonomic, with no locking carabiner in the way; Feeds silky-smooth with skinnier (~9. An ingenious little protrusion on the carabiner’s spine prevents the GriGri from sliding down onto the spine, and the mini gate at the base of the carabiner keeps the Ceros from shifting once its clipped to your harness belay loop. How Many Do You Need? This carabiner, the Petzl William Ball-lock is the metal sleeve successor to the plastic-sleeved ball-lock. This DMM Belay Master 2 Carabiner uses a wide-mouthed gate for ease of use and features a screw-locking system. Subtypes: Screw-lock, twist-lock, and auto-lock. 12″ Anchors; 12" x 4 Carabiner Anchors. Nov 9, 2023 · The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. As if for some reason you forget to put your belay loop behind the anti-cross loading mechanism, it will just harmlessly be pulled down into the bottom of the carabiner via the spring loaded gate that opens downward and then locks moving upward. A slightly larger, modernized, auto lock version of our best-selling Element carabiner that features a smooth gate-to-body transition on the bottom of the carabiner eliminates the belay loop hangups common to other auto lock carabiners. Belay building. Some belay carabiners can capture the belay loop and prevent the twisting and cross loading across the gate. I’ll take the mystery out of all that, don’t worry. For Trad-climbing quickdraws, use Wiregate asymmetrical D-shaped Carabiners. Let me clarify: Can a locking carabiner, properly closed, anchored via the belay loop of your harness, be broken in real world conditions? You’d need to tie off your anchor through the belay loop, cross-load the gate, and produce a factor 2 fall to approach it, but I’m not sure if it’s even been done - and then maybe only with a steel Aug 15, 2019 · While this carabiner is effective for the purpose it is designed for, we found it to be laborious to use, and honestly felt a bit exasperated having to open and close the gate so many times to fiddle the locker onto our belay loop, or to add the belay device, especially during long sport climbing sessions or at the gym. Aug 13, 2024 · The biggest divergence is although the side plates have a hole for a locking carabiner, the Edelrid Pinch can attach directly to the belay loop as long as it’s less than 3/4-inch wide. It will help prevent the carabiner from rotating while shifting the load to the carabiner’s spine and not on the gate. Verified Purchase. ii. They are commonly used with belay and rappel devices. I’m only 100 lbs, and it really helps me give a good belay and a comfortable controlled lower. Feb 22, 2024 · Common Uses. Same story on rappels Oct 1, 2018 · As a belay 'biner, it's not as chunky as I'm used to – but, that's a personal preference. Belaying with any style of belay device (indoors or out) Anchor carabiners for outdoor sport climbing or trad climbing; Ice / Alpine / Winter climbing – Screw gates tend to be the easiest locking style to finagle back into action if/when they freeze shut. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Engineered for safety and durability, it's the best belay carabiner for your adventures. (Side note - belaying the second with a Munter hitch directly off the anchor might seem a little old-school, but it’s a very useful technique that every climber should know. Sep 14, 2020 · Comes in three colors – orange, purple, and grey. Mar 1, 2023 · The design of the carabiner is also essential when pairing it with a GriGri. Mar 12, 2025 · The Best Assisted Braking Device for Lead Belaying: Petzl NEOX Long-Term Review. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. It has a nifty “horn” along the back spine that helps prevent cross-loading and a generous gate opening that doesn’t create problems getting your rope in or out. Carabiners come in a variety of sizes. You’re welcome. Due to the fact that the Belay Master 2 is specifically designed for use with belay devices, we assessed it primarily for this function only. A slight curve in the spine gives it a wide gate opening so you can quickly set up your rope and belay device. ” Oct 12, 2023 · Best Uses. Aug 31, 2021 · HMS ‘biners tend to make the best belay carabiners. 0 Belay Device’s assisted braking will give you a hand. Just treat the two ropes as one and tie the hitch the same way. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Reviewed in the United States on August 5, 2019. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. The DMM Sentinel is designed to be used with the DMM Bugette belay device, so it's perfectly able as a belay carabiner. Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. Below are 7 of the best belay devices and what makes them great as well as what you would want to think about when using them if they would be right for you. 4 grams. But for a grigri, a small D-shaped carabiner is best. By I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. I specifically switched to this setup to prevent cross loading. The Rhino carabiner makes an ideal belay carabiner with its incredible 6,069 pound load capacity and wide basket. Carabiner May 9, 2024 · Among the carabiners we tested, the RockLock Twistlock is on the heavier side. 0 have a similar structure to standard tubular devices, but in order to catch the climber, they turn upwards to snag the rope between the carabiner and the belay device. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8. Large carabiners are typically easier to handle and easier to clip (they have larger gate openings), and they can hold more gear inside. Menu. For ATC, a smooth oval one is best. If you are using the older GriGri with a fairly thin rope, we’d suggest the Petzl Freino to help add friction when lowering and rappelling. 6 days ago · What Is A Carabiner? Top 13 Best Carabiners For Climbing. It’s a compact, pear-shaped design and wide rope-bearing surface for smooth belays and reduced wear. In addition to the fully round stock carabiners, the CAMP Nimbus was added to the review by special request (shout out to Nick B!), and two non-round stock carabiners were added to the test for Apr 3, 2019 · The last item on our best carabiner list is another entry from DMM. (In case you’re wondering what “HMS” means, it’s an acronym for the German, “Halbmastwurf sicherung”, which loosely translates as “Munter hitch belay” carabiner. Many devices are also designed to be clipped directly to the anchor when belaying a following climber from above. The whole class of tube-style belay devices are called collectively, by many climbers, ATCs. On the flip side, the twistlock mechanism of this carabiner is among the best we've tested. Active Braking Devices Jul 6, 2021 · The goal of this review was to find the best fully round stock locking carabiner for rope bearing on a belay device in plaquette or "guide" mode. Types of Carabiners for Climbing. The best carabiner for belaying ultimately depends on personal preference and specific climbing needs. Aug 15, 2019 · All of the lockers tested for our Best Locking Carabiner Review, with a Petzl Gri-Gri two for size reference. I have the petzl freino belaying carabiner. Apr 15, 2025 · Edelrid HMS Bulletproof carabiner review Best locking carabiner for climbers Lightweight aluminum climbing gear Durable steel insert carabiner Triple lock carabiner for safety Keylock nose design for easy clipping Heavy-duty belay carabiner features Top-rated carabiner for sport climbing Aluminum and steel construction benefits Carabiner Mar 22, 2025 · Carabiner Type: A pear-shaped or “HMS” belay carabiner with round metal works best. Dec 15, 2021 · An indirect belay can be performed with any guide mode belay device, or even with a simple locking carabiner and a munter hitch. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate). It allows the device to take some of the weight off of you when lowering a partner heavier than you. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh Jan 8, 2019 · Overall Utility. Long days at the crag can mean belaying fatigue. belay carabiner (wide top reduces rope binding especially during rappel, larger rope-bearing cross section for smoother belaying and less kinking) anchor power points (larger size allows for easier organization) Typical Price Range: $11 – $40. 7mm and 10. Carabiners (D, asymmetrical D, or oval) for racking. This is not the locking carabiner to be taken in the pack on a long overnight climbing trip into the mountains, on ski mountaineering trips or on most multi-pitch climbs. Lighter and faster to use but less secure. And our best belay carabiner has a built-in swivel and can withstand more than 400 kg (4 kn) of force. DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner. This is actually where the acronym “HMS” comes from — the German word for a Munter is (with typical German bombast): “Halbmastwurfsicherung. This happens when the carabiner rotates around between the belay loop on your harness and the belay device so that the force is on the minor axis instead of the major axis. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t May 31, 2025 · You might think that all carabiners are the same, but a suitable belay carabiner can make all the difference when it comes to releasing slack, dropping safely, and avoiding tragedies. Jul 11, 2024 · Locking Carabiners. Petzl Attache. Dec 4, 2020 · Although your run-of-the-mill locking carabiner works just fine with almost any belay device, carabiners (like the Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate) with “shields” and L-shaped bars resting underneath their gate also provide an added protection against cross-loading. Smaller carabiners are lighter and take up less room on your rack, but they can be harder to clip. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Essentially, the force of the climber’s weight is exerted against the gate of the carabiner, which is the weakest part. MightyPhine. Locking Carabiners. Petzl makes some good ones that’ll pair well with it. Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. They come in different shapes and sizes, but for GriGri, the D-shaped carabiner is the best one. However, some are streets ahead of others, and some are just plain unfunctional. Used in less critical areas, like quickdraws or racking gear. Weight Range: 44g – 250g. Its strength measures 25kN. Perfect. If you’re here, you know what a belay device is but what you may not know is what features would best suit your climbing needs. May 17, 2025 · BEST FOR: BELAYING & RAPPELLING. 274 ratings . These carabiners are popular, even in the HMS auto locking carabiner versions, for belaying. Sep 20, 2018 · So an “HMS” carabiner is, roughly, the “half clove hitch belay” carabiner, a large, locking pear-shaped carabiner, suitable for belaying with a Munter hitch. Top Select: Petzl Attache; Best Bang for your Buck-CAMP USA Photon Lock; Black Diamond Magnetron (greatest auto-locking) Black Diamond Neutrino (greatest non-locking) Best Asymmetric D: DMM Phantom Screw-Gate Carabiner; Best Auto-Locking: Edelrid HMS Strike Slider The perfect belaying carabiner is the HMS locking carabiner. g. Use pear-shaped locking gate carabiners for belaying, comfortable rappelling, and setting up top-rope anchors. Long Answer… Brands have been churning out dedicated belay biners for years now. It’s tricky to lower smoothly, especially without belay gloves. The folding levers for lowering the climber are nearly identical, as is the belay carabiner clipping point. May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. Without exception, you should always use a locking carabiner in tandem with a belay device. Best Rappelling Carabiner Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Read Time - 2 minutes. Used in critical connections like belay setups and anchors. Feb 29, 2024 · Your belay device will influence which shapes will work best. Double Ropes: Need to descend with double ropes? No problem. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. Description. For Sport-climbing quickdraws, you can use any gate-style carabiner. With this carabiner, you get the distinctive Rhino feature, the horn at the top of the carabiner, which prevents your autolocking belay devices from moving about. The indirect belay method should only be used when even the best anchor available is not reliable enough to trust the climbers’ lives to it. Their wide baskets make for easy setup and smooth feeding, and the width is also necessary if you ever have to belay off a Munter hitch. Belay carabiners are great for dedicated sport and trad climbing use. Anti-cross-loading, this locking carabiner is convenient to use and gives you no hassles. E. I love it soooo much. 5mm, pairs well with any HMS locking carabiner, and lowers smoothly and securely even when it’s the 20th lowering of the day. May 20, 2020 · Best Carabiner For GriGri Plus / Best Carabiner For GriGri 2. For Revo, idk. If you're looking for a carabiner to buy a few of, or something for alpine climbing or multi-pitching, this might not be the carabiner for you. . , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Dec 5, 2024 · All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or when belaying a top-roping climber. This is my primary locking carabiner, which I use with belay devices, with munters (it is an HMS, designed to take munters readily, even on double ropes), and many other situations. Position the small end of the carabiner inside the belay device and use the large end on your belay loop. That speaks a lot for its popularity. While many are good at doing multiple things we always recommend having specific carabiners per use case. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. Aug 15, 2019 · The best belay locker due to ultra-secure gate and durable stainless insert: The longtime standard as the best locker for all purposes: A lightweight, simple, twist-locking offset-D that performs better than the rest: Our Best Bang for the Buck winner due to its great price, but also its impressively lightweight Jan 9, 2018 · 5. The Kimjee® anodizing aluminum carabiner for dog leash only weigh 23. A large, locking carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is well-designed for belaying and rappelling. Aug 15, 2019 · The Gemini is nowhere near as expensive as some of the higher priced belay-specific carabiners, but still costs slightly more our favorite belay specific carabiner, or even our favorite HMS shaped one. April 2020. May 4, 2021 · Out of habit, many climbers always reach for a large, pear shaped, “HMS” belay carabiner anytime they are belaying. If you’re using a tube style belay device, an HMS carabiner is usually the better option, preferably one with round stock or a steel in the basket for smoother feeding. Non-Locking Carabiners. Mechanical devices can use most carabiners, though a belay device with a horn is most intentionally designed. xvnx zow rljehtz timvqe ikot lltxnk kthi zwj rafmzm rjllfx