Double length sling for rock climbing reddit It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. -Prussik cord with a locker. Agreed. Depends on your local climbing area. Agreed on weight, though. There are many variations, some good and others shitty. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). With the 180cm sling, double it over and tie an overhand on each end. 3-. 8mm (70m) Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Slings rated to be used for mountaineering and rock climbing Dec 12, 2022 · 1. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. The packs I’ve been eyeing up is are the Mystery Ranch Scree 32 L and Osprey Tempest Pro 28 L. Dynema is amazing. Edit: ignore me, my bad. -double length sling. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Tie a Munter-mule-overhand (MMO) in the double-length sling on a locking carabiner clipped to the anchor. These long slings help you manage rope drag on wandering alpine routes. I think you've got enough singles for most things. The rope you're climbing on should be doing the stretching, a moving masterpoint under weight can allow strands of your anchor legs to cut against the rock. 6 million pounds. My main rack was BD c4s but I've added totems, friends, dragons, and some other stuff while building an Indian Creek rack. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. I use the auto-block with only a couple loops, because the number in the video makes it really slow to rap, but definitely start slow. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. It can be 6mm prussic cord, or, more commonly a double length sling girth hitched to the hard points of your harness with a locker on the end, which also gets clipped into the fixed lines. If the metal parts look good, they are good. I'd still use static materials for the anchor, but I would keep in your comfort zone. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. This should cover roping up and crevasse rescue on glaciated terrain, I expect my partner(s) to carry a similar set up. Some people I know like to extend the belay loop on their harness with a shoulder length sling, clip their atc to the top of that for rapping, and put the auto-block on their belay loop so that it is load bearing. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. With the draws, lay the two 60 cm slings atop each other with the bartacks lined up, and then tie an overhand on each end. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. Sep 25, 2020 · What length is best? Slings tend to come in lengths of 30cm, 60cm, 120cm, 240cm, and even 480cm long. And yes we are scared of falling. The rappel extension helps eliminate this issue Posted by u/Sahilsinghvi - No votes and 24 comments For short rappels the double shoulder length sling diaper harness is the absolute shit. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). Typically a lobster claw, or a cow's tail setup is what is used. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. That said, my ATC, prussik, double length sling and a couple of lockers pretty much never leave my harness. In my opinion, the only reason to use a sliding x is if you're climbing multiple routes on the same anchors and need the direction of pull to change. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. Skip to main content If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. 1. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice Personally I'd do a run of totems (BD . Consider replacing older slings. These are for anchors. The home of Climbing on reddit. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. 3 double length slings. Static materials in anchors is super standard. Pretty light and plenty of length. You can still use it as a tether like this, you simply extend your rappel on the loop closest to you formed by the overhand knot in the double-length sling and the girth hitch. Jordan Peterson. The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. 8 singles and 2 doubles is a pretty good and common setup, although 6 single and 2 doubles would be pretty reasonable, also, considering that you're also getting Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Some sort of redundancy is good I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. Keep in mind many canyoneering ropes are narrower in diameter than climbing ropes and your prussik should be narrower diameter cord than the rope it’s grabbing… go 6mm or 7mm cord for your prussik loop. -quad length sling. Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. Otherwise use a master point (an 8 is better than an overhand if you have the slack, easier to untie). 2. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. Small cord will bite better and has a sheath to wear through before the core. At the same time, the rope is more abrasion resistant. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. DMM offset nuts and the biggest offset . As your rope gets longer the benefit of a bit more diameter rope becomes more pronounced. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. (Photo: James Eckhardt/RMRU) The sling was made of tubular webbing style that when new would have rated to around 18kN (4,000 pounds). This anchor is fine. If you extend a piece four 1. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. 5-3), and DMM offset nuts. The more of a crack climb it is, the less extension you need as you can just clip straight into the cams. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. you can also make an equalette with the rope very easily on bolted anchors. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. You might need to learn a few new knots if you don't know them (clove hitch, figure-8 on a bite, etc). Mtnoutlet. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. I climb sport and trad but I don’t have trad gear. 75 or 2), fill in the rest with something else that works for you (BD . Full length of webbing retrieved with break. Personal preference, I guess. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. Step 1 Gear up Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. However, if you know the route is a bolted belay, one single double-length can do the trick. 2 if you're looking to multipitch with people that aren't contributing gear. You're good. Also, if you really don't trust the bolts you shouldn't be climbing on them. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. Double lengths can always be used in shorter configurations when needed. You could get by without the 2 extra single lengths and see how you get on, but if you're getting into multis then I highly recommend having the two double length slings for sure. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Attach your prusik onto the loaded strand, and attach a double-length sling (via girth hitch) to the prusik. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. Carabiners for the cams missing them 20-30' 7mm cordalette. You don't need to mess with knotting slings, or doubling up to clip to 2 points. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. I'd recommend (and use) a double length sling girth hitched to my belay loop, and I tie an overhand about halfway up. There's no hard rule for sling age, but i replace anything that looks worn or older than 10 years. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. They all work Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. * Leave about 6 inches of sling between the anchor and the 10 - 12 quickdraws or alpine 'draws: Most trad climbers use alpine 'draws, which are made using a single-length sling (60cm long) or a double-length sling (120cm long) and two carabiners. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't enough and you are on the correct route, before grabbing a huge piece of static or another cordalette, carefully double check those bolts because Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Don't forget 6-10 slings and 2 double length slings with carabiners. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Oct 10, 2022 · Only close inspection of the knot revealed that the sling was originally green. This gets you a "minimal single rack". Extra long extension or anchors. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. A double-length sling is the same thing if you choose to completely ignore the convenience factor and adjustability of a PAS it's always the right length, and fully-weight-rated no matter where you clip in. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. On the up, it can be used to extend. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Most of my cams are used. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. It's not comfortable by any stretch of the imagination but it gets the job done. Keep the bartack on the sling close to the prusik. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' It depends on the situation. My gear includes: rappelling equipment (ATC, double length sling, prusik), a set of quick draws, chalk bag, 2 pairs of shoes, harness, and a rope that I plan on strapping over the top of the pack. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. More if the route wanders. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Aug 18, 2019 · Double-Length — 60cm/24in. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. Extend, extend, extend some more. Jun 13, 2022 · I like to build a quad anchor out of a 180 cm sling, but you can also just use two alpine draws (60 cm slings and a couple carabiners). I usually carry 3 biner and 3 locking biner, 2 short prussic (shoulder length) and a long one (double shoulder length), a couple of ice screws and at least one snow stake. Because of the roofs, traverses, and lack of vertical cracks, you will find yourself using a ton of slings at the Gunks. 240cm is plenty of Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws.
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