Drag vs crimp This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. After finding a glaring open hand weakness, I've decided to switch doing my max hangs from half crimp to a more open grip. Minimizing Rope Drag: Making sure the rope runs smoothly without excessive friction is key to a good lead belay. Similarly, most people are stronger in one over the other (half vs open/drag). Now, not all bullets, nor all cartridges, are happy with this measurement method. Crimp If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Initially focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grip—one set of each. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. Moved Permanently. IMO, it's not a great approach though. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. If you want, crimp a bit more, until the edge of the case mouth contacts the bottom of the crimp groove or cannelure. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. I stay mindful of how the rope moves through the system. So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. Poor quality crimps can cause corrosion, intermittent or […] Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. This led to a weakness for Mar 16, 2005 · I'm balanced between half crimp and full drag (3 fingers for me, due to short pinky), but cannot match that with full crimp: my index and middle do not extend much and the full crimp is the most painful prehension for me. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. Dec 17, 2012 · Since you'll have a crimp groove or cannelure in your revolver bullet, you can start with the calculation but crimp into the groove. The three-finger drag is a grip from which to hang while the four-finger open-hand is a grip from which to rest or even pull. Before co-founding HPA, Andre owned and operated STM, an international performance dyno tuning workshop located in Wellington, New Zealand. I think on small holds crimping is much more secure and generally stronger. as a general rule. Some grip types are more “active” than others. hoopersbeta. The main thing to consider in using a star drag, conventional reel is the size of the fish you are after as well as the application you are utilizing the reel for. Full crimp can be used of course, but definitely don’t use it as your main grip type. Can see where OP sees the similarity, but it's very different in the sense that OP OP can not really recreate the body positioning just from a free-hang doorframe pull-up. After doing the first set of five hangs, rest for 5 to 10 minutes before doing a second set of five hangs. Full Crimp Grip vs Half Crimp Grip May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www. Same goes to the people crimping on the lip of slopers. Full crimp: Good for small edges. You can do this by reducing the size of the edges you I don't think this vital topic has been covered sufficiently Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by dragging/open handing but can only half-crimp it for 4 secs whereas Probes reckoned it would be the other way round for him. Sep 22, 2022 · From a biomechanics perspective, half crimp will be weaker than full crimp or drag because full crimp includes direct force from the thumb and open includes passive tension/friction over the edge. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Feb 9, 2020 · In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Three-Finger Drag. The accuracy of the half-crimp model is higher, hence half crimp is a more reliable measure for climbing performance (grade). During his time at STM, Andre developed and tuned hundreds of high-powered import drag, land speed, rally, touring & drift cars, many setting multiple World Records and winning championships. This holding technique is entirely different from full and half crimps as the length of your fingers on the hold do not form a bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold, instead, your fingertips are the only thing on If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Progressive Overload: Gradually increase the difficulty of your hangs. ‘Crimping’ or ‘to crimp’ is a verb that describes using a crimp. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Though this type of crimp is safer to use than the full crimp, you should still pay attention to how your hand and wrist responds to movements and be cautious of overuse and straining your tendons. This hold isn’t as active as a half-crimp and relies more on friction and tension than your pulley muscles. Poorly crimped connections can lead to a variety of issues, such as an electrical short, an open circuit, or a weak connection. We practice half crimp to let our thumbs work independently on pinches, slopers and thumb catches AND as a less injury than full crimping all the time. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. An Introduction & Overview of diagnosing Crimp Applicator Issues, Inspection Equipment and Preventive Maintenance Crimp quality is a key aspect within the wire harness industry. Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. Open hand grip is shown to reduce A2 pulley stress by 36 times in com Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. , half-crimp and 3 finger drag complement each other better. Repeat, 3-5 times. Drag Crimp The least damaging and straining method of holding a crimp is by open or drag grip. Jan 4, 2024 · Instead of crimping every hold, try to mix in other grip types, like the three-finger drag or half crimp. The half crimp can be trained using almost any grip strength training method – hangboarding, edge lifting, board training or bouldering – although you will choose an This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. Sep 27, 2024 · ‘Crimp’ is a noun and umbrella term that describes the type of hold found in climbing where you can only fit the first pad of your fingers or so on a hold (or less). Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Oct 31, 2019 · That's good to know. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. Once mastered, the 3-Finger drag will likely become a staple in your climbing, allowing you to hold onto sloped edges with maximum efficiency. The half-crimp grip, where your fingers are bent at about 90 degrees at the first knuckle without thumb overwrap, is especially important for building strength safely. You will injure yourself eventually guaranteed. Higher risk than drag positions. When to Use Half crimp vs. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I only train 3 finger drag on a hangboard. Open Crimp/ Drag Grip. Star drag reels are great for targeting fish under 50 lbs. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. I can full crimp front2 and middle2 on the small BM rungs, though, so I don't know what to think. So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm normally talking about all grip types except half and full-crimp (3 finger drag, "quarter" crimp, holding slopers, pockets etc) The drag control looks like a ninja star on the side of the reel just inside the handle. It’s a grip that works best on narrow, small fingertip handholds that don’t require a super aggressive technique like the full-crimp grip. The safest way to use a crimp hold is with an open crimp, also known as a drag grip. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. I think you'd be better off putting time into strengthening the structures of your hand so you can crimp more, instead of working towards openhanding 8mm edges. My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. The full crimp adds your thumb. The grip involves a climber elongating their index, middle and ring finger into an open-hand (or ‘Drag’) position to hold an edge. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. 4 fingers open is probably more useful than 3 finger drag on the wall, but training-wise I think half-crimp and 4 fingers open have more overlap compared to half-crimp and 3 finger drag, i. The document has moved here. Jul 13, 2021 · It’s recommended to use the half-crimp whenever possible, as it also helps to build hand and forearm strength on a variety of holds. Also, you have some hyperextension of the DIP joint. Further, ‘crimpy’ is an Jan 5, 2025 · I don't think this vital topic has been covered sufficiently :blink: Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by dragging/open handing but can only half-crimp it for 4 secs whereas Probes reckoned it would be the other way round for Dec 8, 2019 · In this video, we discuss the proper crimping technique for climbing injury prevention. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Mar 27, 2019 · The drag is a more passive grip than the half-crimp, relying more on friction and tension in the tendon than 'pure strength'. Crimp climbing requires excellent finger strength to perform efficiently. I'll get 4 fingers on, drag the index, bump to a full crimp, move to gaston, extend to index-only whatever it takes that feels within my level of risk. May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. I train open crimp and 3 a lot more than full crimping lately, but it's been specific to my goal problems. The catch is that on really hard moves it won't provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp, so it tends to be more useful for saving energy on easier moves (see 'grip switching'). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also in one of their videos they say that, based on their data, the half crimp and 3 finger drag are the two grip positions that translate best from hangboard training to all different positions. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. Rest for 3-5 minutes between Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. 3,040 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). I would say, however, that I see a strict half crimp every single time I'm at the gym or at the crag. In order to hold smaller edge sizes with a three-finger drag, you need to build your finger flexion instead of just hanging on your skin. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Mechanically better grip when catching the next hold An open drag is Oct 29, 2020 · The reality is, the full crimp &/or closed crimp is a valuable part of a climbers toolbox. Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Yesterday when I did max hang, on the 3/4 inch edge of beastmaker 1000 I was able to pull 80-85% body weight with one hand either chisel or 3-finger drag, but I could barely hang on the same edges with both hands in the half-crimp position. Your PIP joint (the middle knuckle) is fully flexed and your MCP joint (the "fist" knuckle) has some flex in it. And when I put my thumb over my index finger I feel like I'm going to break it. Jan 19, 2021 · It is significantly more accurate. The drag is important to me so I have the strength to hit a hold and readjust confidently or move feet first. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), Many moves can be climbed just as efficiently with an open-hand grip, and it’s prudent to put an equal amount of effort into training both half crimp and 3-finger drag. Three-finger drag is almost always best when the climber is directly underneath the hold, while the four-finger openhand can easily access gastons or side pulls. May 1, 2024 · Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. It allows you to: pull harder on smaller holds, pull your hips into the wall, bend your wrist so you can move past your hand, and sometimes is just simply the most comfortable way to grab a hold (especially outside). In a half crimp, your thumb presses naturally against the side of your index finger. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. Relax, allowing your fingers to gently rest on the hold again. Advanced climbers can do one or two additional sets that target three-finger drag and the various one- and two-finger pocket grips. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. Oct 4, 2017 · When using the half crimp, the residual distribution (the gray and white vertical boxes) looks to be more equal for different grades. e. The grip style makes a huge difference on a hangboard. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. I see the same hold/move getting done with full crimp, half crimp, and even drag sometimes. Oct 15, 2021 · In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. Right now I'm training my half crimp and full crimp by low intensity The 3rd is a crimp, not "aggressive half crimp" - it's a crimp. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. com/In this video, we are going Mar 30, 2024 · Grip Types: Focus on half-crimp and full-crimp grips. Jan 31, 2022 · HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. This should last for only 2-3 seconds. Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. In addition, if you are certain the only way to hold something is with a super powerful full crimp, consider making adjustments to your feet and body position to make climbing holds feel better instead of always resulting to full crimping. Efficient Clipping: Clipping quickly and efficiently is crucial in lead climbing. I guess I am just reiterating that the vacuum crimp 'style' is just an approach to more efficient crimping, not a type of crimp as OP OP is asking. When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo Nov 9, 2022 · Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. My half crimp is only slightly stronger than my 2-finger drag. I focus on keeping my movements smooth, minimizing wasted energy, and making sure the rope . Full crimp. Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. That the only difference between a crimp and a half crimp; whether or not the MCP is flexed. erxey cyjbttx aux yrj yoywm xbczx rfjpkeh qxvx fwwpr sqs