Dynamic rope vs static rope reddit. performance on shorter sequences.

Dynamic rope vs static rope reddit. Go with dynamic rope and protect it well with redirects.

Dynamic rope vs static rope reddit I'm not sure what the goal is but there are a few belay options. Most static ropes are made from polyster which doesnt absorb water like nylon/dynamic ropes. PPL vs CTX with RoPE + SuperHOT LoRA. That's static loading. That led me to using ropes designed for arborists doing SRT with low stretch. If you're in Europe it'll have the EN standard 1891. Static ropes: Static ropes have a diameter of 9 - 13mm, and are commonly measured in inches, so you may see the diameter stated as 7/16", for example. 2mm Diameter material has a static load limit of 600lbs. You can equalize an anchor just fine with a "dynamic" cordallete. Yep, I forgot to mention the static vs dynamic. On top of the safety issue, no good way to do a pull cord because your pull energy just stretches the rope. I think you need a minitrax instead, if going down the petzl route. Now imagine you raise the weight a foot or two and let go. Coated does reduce dirt collestion on the rope, but just washing your rope when it's dirty works too. 5 static rope for TR solo which feels very solid and was not particularly expensive, I think around $110. Oct 15, 2021 · Here is an overview of some of the similarities between static and dynamic rope. Both dynamic and static ropes are used for a variety of physical activities to keep climbers, rappellers, and equipment haulers safe in different cases. Static rope is typically used in climbing contexts to rig fixed lines for jugging up (ascending the rope with equipment) or building anchors. Feb 22, 2023 · So these guys seem to know what they are talking about. My old gym used to have static ropes because the people who set it up were idiots (it was free for me to climb there, so hey, that's a plus at least). 216 votes, 63 comments. static ropes to learn more about the difference. 5mm I use a 8mm x 30m static rope for general mountaineering and glacier travel. The terms "static" and "semi-static" are the same thing. unless it is literally going to sit in your pack as a rescue rope, in which case that is impractical to carry a rope of that size for just that. true. Interesting stuff. Then they switched to dynamic double braid ropes and split tail friction hitches. I have. I think static line is fine. Aug 14, 2023 · Dynamic rope reduces your fall effects because it lowers the deceleration at the end of the fall. rock abrasion better than a dynamic rope. Replace a fall arrest lanyard that has a shock absorber and do just as well? No. a regular microtraxion, or whatever kind of progress-capture device you are using. . Climbing ropes are dynamic (canyon ropes should be static). ). Just bought Dynamic rope from Flow on Fire. Glacier travel and Ice climbing; coated. The flat webbing is lighter but doesn’t hold up as well to the dynamic pulls. If I do rope in for something these days (usually mountaineering on sketchy traverses while mountaineering) I use my decade newer 10. The stretchy core that gives dynamic ropes their elasticity can degrade over time, especially with repeated exposure to sharp edges or heavy hauling. Dynamic climbing is excellent for boulder problems, while static climbing is amazing for sport or trad climbing. Dec 4, 2009 · You can climb on either. If you have a MBS rating, you don’t have a dynamic rope. However, not all ropes are the same. In general, it comes down to preference, I'd say. For any sort of lead climbing, it’s imperative to use a dynamic line. You can use a static rope for a top rope. It would be dangerous for the climbing rope itself to be static. Jun 19, 2018 · So to save a little time I don’t do that and I switched to dynamic rope because two or three feet can give you a pretty big jolt on static rope. 2. I also was using one stick for a while and dynamic seemed the smarter choice for that. A lot of folks will just use their rope to tie off a few cams, and call it good. My brother expressed interest in climbing Looking Glass… I am currently in the market for a new climbing rope, for both trad & sport. When I was trying out SRT you could noticeably tell a rope that had more stretch. 5x it's length before enough force is built up to pluck the mired vehicle. Dynamic ropes don’t have an MBS rating since the breaking point depends on how quickly force is applied. Keep slack out if your ropes and do not worry about dynamic vs static. static lines are alot easier to cut tho because all of the stretch is out of the rope. Dynamic ropes sustain a ton of abrasion when used for TR solo. I prefer to just use my workhorse dynamic rope since I have no other use for a static line and if you are doing big dynamic moves on the route you are climbing, it's a bit of a softer landing. And yes, static rope has a bit of stretch to it compared to a bolt, hut it's still gonna hurt a lot. REI is correct. But this cordage is NOT designed for dynamic loads, if you choose to use it for such, remember the rules of thirds. Put another way, say a given rope can hold 100 lbs static before breaking. Look up dynamic climbing ropes vs. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jon The 1. Maybe you call it skipping instead, but either way, this is is the place to ask questions, discuss workouts, and post any jump rope/skipping related content! Imagine that the rope is just strong enough to hold the weight. They’re both used for safety. The rope bridges would be made from static rope (a rope bridge made from dynamic rope would be a disaster) or with steel cable. A static rope is one that only stretches minimally (less than 5% elongation), and a dynamic rope is one that stretches a good bit more (about 5 to 10% elongation). Maybe I just need more experience. What's more, static rope can be made stronger than dynamic rope. The stretch is a bad thing and will cut rope groves into the soft sandstone lip when you are on rappel (the stretch and contraction of the dynamic line causes this) and do your rope pull, especially if you double-rope rappel (which is common in rock climbing). When I was researching it, I was pretty surprised to see the difference in impact force. So the factors that make a rope nicer: Thinner. People talk about dynamic ropes being harder to jug, because they're stretchier -- but you don't really go "oh god, my movement is being converted into waste heat!" when you're going up it. Honestly, static ropes are not very useful in free rock climbing (mostly for rappelling, fixed lines in aid climbing, etc. Just keep in mind the snatch vs. While they may look similar, they are designed for completely different purposes. Accessory cord isn't spectacularly dynamic - a few percents of elongation maybe - and the rope is spectacularly dynamic. I am not a proponent of dynamic rope for saddle hunting because it gives your a sense that it is OK to fall. Edited: dry is indeed coated, just got the words messed up Good for many many pulls. Saddle hunting tethers are about fall prevention not fall arrest. You can easily guess that the rope will break. So I carry one of each. You shouldn't use a static rope when climbing outdoors unless it is for building the anchor or it is for hauling on a bigwall. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Thin dynamic ropes are a pain to ascend as they tend to bind on prussik loops. Falling even a very short distance onto a static rope really hurts. I'm thinking a micro traxion backed up with a grigri 2 on a dynamic rope, but it sounds like a static rope is best for the traxion. 5mm the new 9. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Felt better than static lines. A static rope can take the rope v. tow (dynamic vs static) nature of the strap in mind for where and how you plan on using it. That's dynamic loading. Not safe to use climbing ropes. The rope, like climbing rope, has an outer abrasive resistant sheath and inner strands like paracord You do not want to top rope on fully static rope since it will cause some pretty uncomfortable hard falls. Static rope for the climber would greatly increase the force a fall (even factor 0) puts on the anchor. You just go up it. If you're brand new to climbing, the terms static and dynamic may have you a little confused. So I wouldn't use a thin dynamic rope. Dynamic rope in rock climbing has a lot of slip in the belay device in addition to the rope stretch while lead climbing. advice: Please don't use a dynamic climbing rope for canyoneering . EN-1891 is the equivalent for static ropes. g. This is akin to jugging but more focused on quick transitions from climbing up to descending and more work positioning Yesterday I did a tree job for a friend. Static rope is for anchors only and you need proper training (best received from a certified guide) on how to use a static rope for an anchor extension. Thoughts Dynamic Ropes: While dynamic ropes are also strong and capable of handling falls, they are more prone to wear and tear when used for static loads or in abrasive conditions. 8mm 70m length rope. Keep in mind a 20' dynamic rope can stretch up to 1. I was solo cutting and used my old climbing rope to rig everything. A fall that would expand a shock absorber would put that energy in your body after the rope stretch did what it could. Both styles of climbing can be used for top-rope climbing since the main difference between using dynamic and static climbing is that style of climbing is speed. Dynamic or semi-dynamic ropes for anchors will have a bit of stretch, which may not be desirable since it can cause rubbing against rock edges. Static is also more efficient for hauling and ascending. Is 9. 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. I've been going to a gym to get back into it, but I'm looking forward to getting some trad exposure now. In addition to climbing rope there is also climbing cord also known as accessory cord. 7mm Diameter material has a static load limit of 400lbs, and the 2. When jugging, that same stretch in a dynamic rope that dissipates the force means that a lot of your efforts to move up go to waste, so static lines are preferred. As already said climbing rope is 8mm minimum and comes in dynamic or static. As for weight rating and size, a 20' 2" strap rated at 20,000 lbs is fine for a lighter vehicle. I’m in the US West and I’ve never seen a static rope at the gym. There is no problem with a static top rope anchor, because in a top rope configuration there are many meters of dynamic rope to absorb any fall force. Perplexity vs CTX, with Static NTK RoPE scaling. See full list on thewanderingclimber. Like others said static is good for tosses/juggling but you can master good tosses with any rope so I avoid it personally. Those mean it’s passed the safety tests for dynamic ropes. The important thing to keep in mind is the rope diameter, which may be too small for e. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. When u/kaiokendev first posted about linearly interpolating RoPE for longer sequences, I (and a few others) had wondered if it was possible to pick the correct scale parameter dynamically based on the sequence length rather than having to settle for the fixed tradeoff of maximum sequence length vs. Using the wrong type can be dangerous, so it’s important Posted by u/Old_Gymnast - No votes and no comments 206 votes, 47 comments. You may as well buy a dynamic climbing rope so you can use it for other things though. If you're strictly rappeling, and have no intention of climbing on this rope, then a static rope would be a good place to start looking. the bartlett office i worked in made a policy that we couldnt use static ropes anymore because of how little of a cut causes it to fail. If the label has any of these logos it’s a dynamic rope. I am on a road trip through Utah doing a tiny bit of climbing and a lot of canyoneering. Then static ropes became popular for single rope climbing which has replaced double rope climbing in many applications for many tree climbers. As can you see, NTK RoPE scaling seems to perform really well up to alpha 2, the same as 4096 context. static rope has nothing to do with the friction you might experience indoors vs. If you're going to pick one I'd go with a kinetic rope. One person can belay each person up, lower them, and then get their own turn at the end. So is rated rope. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. Dynamic ropes for rock climbing range in length from 30m to 80m. Oct 2, 2018 · There are a few reasons that led me to using static rope though. Why pay for a more expensive coated rope, assuming you avoid climbing in the rain. Jan 29, 2025 · Static vs. Many people are rappelling and some are doing SRT. Much better with vehicle-to-vehicle recoveries in things like mud, sand, snow, etc. Using dynamic vs. In order to core shot or damage your rope with a trax or microscender or some other popular device for TRS, you need to hit ~5kn. Climbing Rope Length. For top-rope anchors, I would get a few metres of static cord at 7-8mm diameter, like this. No falls on that rope (yet). dynamic is a little more difficult to cut. A lot of gyms have thicker, more durable "low-stretch" rope. Dec 16, 2022 · Whoever told you to buy a static rope when you first started climbing was either talking about using rope to build top rope anchors or was wrong when they told you to buy a static rope. Dyneema/Spectra is a static material that has effectively no stretch. ) If you are of the mindset that because it hasn't been exposed to chemical, you are 100% comfortable using it if it passes a full inspection, just inspect your gear and This community is all about spreading the word on using the power of a jump rope to achieve your fitness goals. If they are showing you these types of stats on manufacturer's website, its likely a dynamic rope. I have an old 11mm dynamic rope that is pretty much a static rope now. I was able to self lower everything, the dynamic rope eased everything and allowed me to apply lots of potential energy into the limb. 5mm. If you plan on using any mechanical progress capture or descending devices then you're into the rope access side of things and you need to use a static rope. They use nylon in dynamic ropes as it's stretchy, they use polyester in climbing cordage and static ropes. I would of course then drop a static line to rescue if my partner felland keep it outside my pack if it made sense. Unless you're actually climbing and need the life safety rating of either, a 20' piece of flat web and utility kernmantle will serve all those purposes listed. 8mm? How much does dynamic elongation % matter? Any input, brand suggestions, insight, deals, etc. Now sailing ropes have a polyester sheath with a melting point of 260C, whereas nylon sheaths have a melting point of 220C. A 60m rope is the standard and will meet your needs most of the time. saftey blue is a dynamic rope i do believe. Aug 16, 2021 · Short falls on static rope will give you spine a jolt (best case) and even a very minor injury can be a problem when you're alone, forgot your phone, don't have cell phone signal etc Go with dynamic rope and protect it well with redirects. As you approach 9. Catching falls is also very different, in top rope the climber basically just sits down and the device takes them but in leading the climber can fall a lot further so the belayer should lock off the belay and jump slightly to catch the climber with However these static elements are always connected by dynamic pieces if there is any risk of shock loading caused by a fall. 30' Warn static strap that doubles as a winch-line-extension when needed. Tube web is excessive for the stated use. Some other progress caputre device, please give suggestions as to what to avoid and what to look for (I might start with my Grigri2, then find another device as I progress to more difficult climbs). It's soft but doesn't fray. outdoors, and friction through anchor draws will do very little to mitigate the effect of having slack out You stated in your first comment that "your anchors are meant to take shock loads" Jun 14, 2023 · Fast vs. Dynamic means on long rappels you are going to be stretching the rope and bouncing around. 30' Kenetic rope from C4RS. The home of Climbing on reddit. A thick static seems like the kind of thing people use on big wall climbs to jug up fixed lines, etc. Indoor climbing and sport climbing; uncoated. Posted by u/scaredofshaka - 25 votes and 90 comments. Definitely rock climbing (they go into forces that break anchors and other gear etc) but another good reminder to not have slack. Two primary types dominate the climbing and rigging world: dynamic ropes and static ropes. Dynamic. 8lbs per kN), RAD line is 12kN. Since static lines can be stronger, they can be thinner and still be sufficiently strong for a rope bridge : ) Where as doing that with a dynamic rope you have all the rope going up to the anchor to figure into to the dynmic rope catching you. Never yank on a tow rope and never tow with a kinetic rope. We are not falling on our rope so static rope is appropriate. In regards to water, static ropes are not typically dry treated, and they dont typically need it. The same part of the rope is scraping over the edge of the cliff every time you fall or rest. Looking at the forces generated falling on ropes and comparing static vs dynamic ropes etc. Never under any circumstances go climbing and fall on static rope, it will break your back and destroy your kidneys. (One third the Static load rating is the Dynamic load rating. Its been a few years since I have done any research, when I last bought my 9. Mar 17, 2025 · Climbing ropes are a crucial part of safety and performance in outdoor recreation, rescue operations, and industrial work. Old dynamic rope works very well. performance on shorter sequences. It's still dynamic, but not quite as dynamic as a proper lead rope. And yes we are scared of falling. slow; Dynamic climbing is much faster than static climbing. Static rope is very strictly for abseiling only, not climbing. the static and dynamic elongation percentages are the based on how the rope is loaded (static means load applied when rope is already stretched out like a toprope fall This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. I use a Sterling 9. Rappelling on a climbing rope isn’t a safe option. It should also say EN-893 and/ or UIAA101. You’ll want a dynamic rope for glacier travel. Nobody to climb with, so I'm interested in doing some soloing, TR to start with. ) Awesome advice. (Our guide service retires ropes regularly because they are used daily, and they often end up being clothes lines, tie downs for rafts, tow ropes, ropes swings around camp, etc. This brings us to the rope bridges. A snatch strap is also dynamic but normally a flat wide webbing and only made to be used once or a couple times. com Static ropes have some benefits in terms of price and durability it seems, but my real question is: is it is safe to canyoneer on healthy dynamic ropes? I've got a 70m climbing rope that has never seen a fall and only ever seen a couple crags, but I've seen some suggestions that the elongation can cause dangerous rubbing on edges. you might have would be greatly appreciated! the 8mm from petzl and the 8mm from courant are very good for hard caves that are not too muddy , for permanent rigging , climbs , and areas where rope friction is absolutely unavoidable i would recommand the courant truck 10mm or the beal spelenium 10. The tether is nice and slick which is amazing for tangles, honestly it feels like cheating! Best rope I've ever used by far. 64 votes, 38 comments. Now, on static NTK RoPE scaling, we see an issue past certain context values, and a really big penalty for bigger alphas. I’m basing my “strength” off break test videos I’ve seen of the same type of rope which consistently break in the 12-14 kN range. If you use a dynamic rope you run the risk of it slipping through your devices or hitches under load. With half the cross-section, you get so much more stretch at the thinner diameters. The reason I said I use dynamic rope in this situation is because 30m rad line isn't much for a two person team with knots, and enough rope as coils for rescue, etc. 1. We also used it to pull a tree over by hand on the ground. In short, dynamic rope is like a bungee cord (but obviously not that extreme), where static rope is like a steel chain. A 6mm hdpe sailing rope with a sheath has a breaking point of 4500lbs, that's 20kN (224. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). lue jddg tnmziix piz bvmiber wmt jww nfuyji hcpmdvi gfnv