Dyneema climbing sling strength reddit. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings.

Dyneema climbing sling strength reddit For years the main material in climbing slings has been nylon. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Jul 2, 2024 · You can see the strength of the nylon sling is higher in every case. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) As for nylon over dyneema: Dyeema is great in the application it's meant for. How would that fare for a three year old sling that has seen some use? I don't really know how the strength of the sling goes down with use and age. 2 kN. Posted by u/drflex - 3 votes and 11 comments Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. It seems like 5. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. HowNot2 (~3y ago) observed a 60% strength loss in Mammut 8mm slings carrying a single overhand knot, and similar results have been obtained by plenty of other testers. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. Just like the title says. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Not sure why anyone's downvoting this, it's the right answer. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. 26K subscribers in the knots community. 3 to 0. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Unless the application requires hundreds of pounds of load bearing. Use a sewn dyneema sling, seriously they're like $5. One of the points made was that the basket hitch was 13kn with new slings. I have used my dyneema slings as a prusik to ascend in self rescue scenarios and have put it back in my rotation, but I would be hesitant to do the same with rappelling as it produces much more heat. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Essentially girth hitching 2 slings results in about 50% of its total breaking strength. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments “In spite of that, we found PE slings that were older than ten years, but had been used rarely and still exhibited very high strength. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Knotting it will create a bigger decrease in strength than typical, and you'll need to use triple-fisherman knots (rather than the standard double), which are somewhat difficult to tie and dress well in cord that's so stiff. There are specific detergents intended for ropes and slings, but generic detergent or chemicals are not guaranteed to leave gear in good shape. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Reasons I can come up with for why it could be a problem: dyneema has a low melting point compared to nylon. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. His closing statement: [knots] although not wrong, will reduce the overall breaking strength of your sling. Sep 1, 2023 · While all Dyneema slings are joined with a small amount of nylon on the edges to give color and suppleness, the 11mm Open Loop Sling features a more equal balance of the two, which gives it some elastic stretch while still featuring the strength-to-weight ratio of Dyneema. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Personal preference: either stick to dyneema slings, or bump up to 7mm cord. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I just extend individual pieces with slings or webbing. Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, whether nylon or spectra. However, the nylon sling is made of more material and it stretches about three times as much, so it can hold a higher load. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. It uses an extra Webbing is so strong that the strength differences between those three materials are irrelevant for most applications. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. If you're just building backpacks, tarps, or tents strength differences don't matter. It comes in a wide selection of different widths and lengths, making it My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. 50 votes, 18 comments. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Any soft goods that are exposed to fabric softener or bleach may have non-evident strength loss. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. BD only recommends to use the wire directly for aid purposes. . 20ft 6mm cord for rock anchors (will be upgrading to 7mm for added strength and durability) 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) 13 votes, 55 comments. All about knots Apr 11, 2019 · Other slings in this review, in particular the Petzl Pur-Anneau Sling and the Black Diamond Dynex Runner, also use a high-molecular weight polyethalene similar to Dyneema to lower weight and size, but these slings are sewn flat, and so need to be a bit wider to ensure the same strength. This can't be true if you think that dyneema is more abrasion resistant than nylon. 5mm cord has a greater rated tensile strength (3,100lb) at half the weight. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. It's even annoying building anchors with them. They are of similar diameter as slings or ropes from steel wire, yet are a fraction of the weight. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. In recent years ultra-high-molecular-weight (UHMW) polyethylenes, with brand names like Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra have gained popularity. Because your method is inferior. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. A splice has 95% of the strength of the original cord or tape, while a knot has 40-60% (depending on the knot). Polyester has also been used, but it's not nearly as common as nylon. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). Using it for alpine draws, slings, dogbones, etc is all good because it's not catching a static load, the rope is dynamic and therefore the sling doesn't have to take the same kind of force as it would catching a static load directly. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. The reduced strength still exceeds the climbing ropes intended purpose. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Of course not. 5mm tech cord, which has a higher strength rating than 7mm nylon cord, would be ideal for remedying the situation. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. Strength is not an issue as they are all basically the same (22kn). Slings or ropes with Dyneema® are very strong and durable, yet lightweight and easy and safe to handle. Another failure would be if one anchor point failed, a quad without limiter knots would suddenly lengthen (extension) which could cause a "shockload" in select circumstances. In terms of strength by weight Dyneema might be stronger. And I believe that the reduced strength of a knotted dyneema sling still exceeds it's intended You don't want big fat slings. Skinny dyneema is the way to go. The Dyneema sling with an overhand knot broke at 11. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Sewn slings similarly maintain a high percentage of the material strength. The same principle applies when comparing climbing slings. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Worth considering that dyneema's melting point is half that of nylon. Mammut pro cord (high strength nylon) in 6mm is cheaper and strong enough in the cordalett formation when you consider all the factors that detract from dyneema's strenght. 5 can vary from 0. Quad axis loading on a D shaped locker is a 25% reduction in strength. The home of Climbing on reddit. Its that the DMM video was in specific circumstances with dynamic falls onto the slings with no rope in the system, which IS dangerous. Not a great quality for a third hand backup. Typically still over 10kn. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. And it seems the basket hitch through the wire ~halves the strength of the dyneema sling. You are right, though, that dyneema is significantly more abrasion resistant than nylon. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Always been hyper conscious about not letting the lube touch the slings when cleaning but never too sure about how crucial it is that I wipe all excess lube off the cam before putting it back in my bag— making it possible for that lube to commingle with nylon, dyneema, and what not. ” 26 votes, 28 comments. e. It would be like saying that tying knots in climbing ropes reduces their strength. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. More annoying, though, is the fact that all of your alpines will now have big knots on them which is cumbersome and another point of failure. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ The new 5. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Thin Dyneema slings in particular need to be treated with caution with respect to aging. Sep 4, 2010 · Dyneema has a 10x higher tensile strength than steel when you compare equal masses of the materials - not if you compare a skinny climbing sling to a large girder or I-beam. Dyneema is shown to slip much more than nylon when knotted and as such a triple fisherman's is recommended. It is true that the dynamic element will absorb a large part of the force, but considering how a knotted dyneema fail at low force, I wonder if a cord or nylon sling would be a better option for belay station, and keep dyneema for extending pros A single strand of dyneema sling is rated to 22kn, which is far stronger than any anchor needs to be, but dyneema strands can be cut by sharp rock. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. Functionally, Dyneema slings may appear to have lower wear resistance than nylon and/or age quicker than nylon Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Oct 9, 2023 · Seems like most everyone is also aware that pull tests in dyneema webbing have demonstrated even BIGGER strength losses due to knots. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. Feb 11, 2016 · All climbers should be aware that girth hitching any Dyneema slings, regardless of size, causes them to lose around 50% of their strength… [B]ased on the fact that a UIAA certified sling holds at least 22kn (roughly 5000lbs), when girth hitched 880DaN or 2000lbs strength should remain. I would much prefer to have this anchor made of dyneema slings than rope. 14 votes, 14 comments. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. Nov 30, 2009 · Dyneema's strength is reduced in tight bends, like over edges and in knots, so I always splice it instead of knot it when I can. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Virtually all modern climbing ropes are made of nylon. This is absolutely true, but does that mean no one should ever tie in to a rope. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. If you use a normal setup with an overhand or figure 8 knot on your sling, there will be a strength reduction on the sling as well. On the other hand, PE slings that were older than ten years, but used rarely, had lost a lot of strength. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. In addition, a rope or sling made with Dyneema® is 40% less bulky and about one third the weight of an equally strong polyester rope or sling. And yes we are scared of falling. Sling Materials. Dyneema really sucks when its knoted/aged/bent. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. 1. I think it should be noted that the breaking strength of a newer BD C4 is reduced by a lot when using anything other than a carabiner attached to the stitched sling. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). The cord or carabiner cuts into the wire, deforms it, and reduces the strength. yft icvmhx gnb shlzlzkgx qqrpx vjdqu cfhkm clx gqjq elxor