Tension board vs moonboard reddit I find the Kilterboard around two grades easier than the Moonboard 2016 (on 40*) and the 2019 moonboard consistently being two grades harder than the 2016 board. Love the Tension Board 2 - it has the best of both worlds with large holds that allow for Kilter style big moves and cutting loose, and thin holds that force body tension and precision. There are more holds on the Tension Board, a lot more. This is just to be able to “stick” moves. Lots of thin pinching too. Compared to the Moonboard the Kilter board is “generally” characterized by hard movements on decent holds. I have access to a kilter board, a moonboard, and a tension board. I went with the Mini Moonboard. The reality is they are all pretty much the same with each having some nuance in style. If you have access to a tension board or a spray wall their minimum grade is generally lower than a moonboard & will help build the necessary strength. Mar 3, 2024 · It seems to straddle the middle ground between Moon and Kilter, but with in-your-face MoonBoard-style grades. Also, the lights on the Moon and tension are next to the holds. No other board has such heinous holds. gym exercises?. Basically, at least in my eyes, the Moon Board is a slightly older Ford that still runs great, The Tension is like a new Ford, and the Kilter Board is an Aston Martin, with the price tag to match. short hopping can help to hit precise targets and control the swing better through shoulder tension Now if your goal is to climb an overhanging Boulder at roughly 30-50 degrees then the moonboard or tension board become somewhat short cutting tools. I mainly want to get better at lead climbing, so I plan on doing 2x lead 1x bouldering per week. Hope this helps! My first day on the board, I didn’t send a single benchmark V4. Also at what angle do you think the tension and kilter boards shine the best? Tension shines best at 40-50 imo. I visited Whetstone climbing gym and there are 3 most popular boards in it, which are Moon, Kilter, and Tension. Also free chalk. However, if you're climbing less than v11, I think the grasshopper board is probably your best bet. If you’re putting in a new board, you just drill the lights differently. In 2005, he standardized the board, giving it a daring 40-degree angle and naming it Had the same questions about 8 months ago. Moonboard is definitely the most sandbagged for sure, then tension and then kilter. It has some really small crimps that are still relatively skin friendly. It will force you to be more aware of your body position and maintain core tension while also building finger strength. At that point I ween off, and introduce min hangs/max hangs to get my peak flexor force slightly higher. I know what I need to work on based on how I’m climbing. Moonboard doesn't translate at all to climbing outside, did my first v13 before I did a v10 on moon. Kilter board imo is a good board for training at 45° and past, not enough load on your fingers at lower angles for folks who climb 7c-8b to be relevant towards outdoor climbing. On the board, I often give less than 5 goes in a session before I move on. Especially board accounts on Insta trend that style. How well does the mini transfer to the regular MoonBoards? In a way, it feels somewhat redundant and doesn't introduce a new climbing style compared to what I already have access to. ) I've never played with the 2019 set but on 2016 I agree with everybody else that the moonboard is too hard for your grades. Many different types of foot and hand holds. See full list on gripped. So far I am pretty happy with this, as it feels like the most out-door like of all widely available pre-set boards. I have the tension 12' w/o Kickboard- sets A,B, some C fixed at 40deg Rows 1-5 hands are basically useless and I eventually moved everything up 1 row to 1-17 (vs 1-18) to have sit starts instead of lay-down starts. The moonboard app also considers the entire kickboard to be on, whereas the tension board app allows you to select which kickboard footholds are allowed. In October I put up a Mini Moonboard. If you consistently climb on the Kilter board at 40 I can pretty much guarantee you will see progress much quicker. You can still jump to crimps to your hearts delight on the Tension Board, but at least you have the option to make another (and probably better) decision. We’ll kick it off with the OG LED training board created by Ben Moon in 2005. 2016 moonboard is another excellent option, but moonboard is very much its own thing compared to real boulders. Personal Anecdotes on Board Training- Typically I like doing training blocks dedicated to either strength or power training on the tension board. I remember climbing on past iterations and V4 was the easiest grade. Don’t make it your singular focus, but consistently get on the board. Regularly send V7/8 range problems in the local gym, some feel easy, some require a lot of effort. I'm starting to try and understand the world of climbing training a bit better, and putting together some weekly/monthly plans… Nov 25, 2023 · Moonboard vs Kilter Board Moonboard. The feet are often very slippery. You can do super powerful problems like a Moonboard or atrociously crimpy static problems if you want. it's all situational and varies based on ones body shape etc. Footwork is important. At the time, I’d already sent V10 and 13a outside. Also, the Tension board goes all the way down to V1, so you can warm up and project on the same board. Counterpoint: watching someone like Natalia board climb you can see a great example of using power, amazing body position, and tension to keep feet on. Jul 30, 2023 · The Moonboard originated in the famous “school room” in Sheffield, UK, the training hub for the UK’s strongest climbers back in the ’90s, including some legendary names, such as Ben Moon. Wooden holds ==> skin doesn't wear out as fast, plus puts more stress on the fingers. I find the kilter to maybe be the most “fun” in a group setting, but the least relevant for the outdoor climbing I do. I've done over 250 benchmarks, but very few above 7B+. The moonboard app doesn’t differentiate between hand holds and footholds, which makes sense given that most of the moonboard holds make decent handholds. How much time should I devote to the boards vs. 11 climbing than the moonboard. in summary: a lot of moderate climbers on the tension board only use 30% of the holds. And after watching some short/narrow videos, it just didn't seem like there was a lot of climbing in the board to be had since the short boards rely a lot on side to side movements to make up for the lack of height. another thing to focus on when cutting is the short controlled jump to vs a powerful move which creates more momentum away from the wall and more downward force. Given the above options, what would be the best route to go for moonboard vs tensionboard and if moonboard, what hold sets? I've only ever used a moonboard with the 2017 hold set (and can climb around v6 on it). I have a tension board, and I had a spray wall before. It solved many of the issues that gym sets can fall victim too and really provides a great training stimulus. May 14, 2021 · On average, Tension holds are larger than MoonBoard holds, so the Tension Board is a bit more approachable for the beginning climber. I've tried a moonboard before, and found it good for limit boudering, but the tension board is also symmetrical so there are a lot more training possibilities! I hopped on the tension board at my new training ground the other day and found the thing brutal though Lots of Moonboard problems and pre-set board climbs can be the same (but have their own benefits). Would only recommend the moonboard. I’d second this person. Nous avons une planche de tension dans ma salle de sport, j'ai pu grimper un bon nombre de v6 sur la planche et j'en suis plutôt content ! On m'a dit… There was a good thread here where ppl documented their hardest send on all the different boards. com Mar 26, 2024 · What’s Best For You: the Tension Board 2, the 2024 MoonBoard, or the Woods Board? Longtime board fanatic Matt Samet tested the three latest LED walls. It's never busy here. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Rocksports: Only good for the moonboard. Each hold has an LED light below it to indicate whether it is the start hold, finish hold, or just a hold on the route. Sep 19, 2021 · Tension board goes all the way down to V0, Moonboard only down to V3. personally i prefer tension. I think the Kilter shines best at 50 and above, especially if you have access to a 45 or a Moonboard at 40. Last time I checked, the holds alone from Kilter were around $9,000. I ended up going back to the Moonboard for limit problems for one reason: it is more similar to outdoor climbing. I’m a solid V5 climber outside with a few V6 and V7 ticks, mainly looking for a good solid training board that will be good for making future progress. Decent amount of sloping non positive hold profiles. We'll go over the differences between these training boards and how they'll help your goals Climbing training boards 101 Can someone share how their tension board 2 grading compares to their red point grade (preferably outside, but inside if you’re an indoor climber)? How about to indoor and outdoor bouldering grades? I don’t think the grades matter all that much but it’s a helpful benchmark when planning out some training. 90% of my issues before were route based and setting similar types of routes/moves. Cost The Tension Board is more expensive than the Moon Board. i didn't get the first few rows of holds. The kilter would be my last choice for training. ICP: Good quality setting but pricing is a bit steep for what you get. the approach I take outside. Supposed to be harder than the regular kilter without being completely outside a beginners depth. I think shallow boards attract weaker climbers who are more likely to go soft on grades. no matter what board, i would recommend chopping off the bottom. I think what has gotten lost is that small system boards are generally one of the best training tools for climbers. In general there are a lot of positives to board climbing such as learning to try hard, training core, pulling and fingerstrength at the same time while the only but IMO hefty downside is that you Dec 23, 2022 · The Grasshopper is an ingenious invention, an adjustable-angle wall you can put together with just a few simple tools and that’s been set up, with 436 T-nuts and LED holes, to be compatible with the three main light-up walls currently on the market: MoonBoard, Tension Board, and Kilter Board. tension recommended the top holds and that's mostly what they've sold it seems. Work on the moves that you can ALMOST do. My personal favorite. Feels the most like climbing on rock. How you use the tension board can vary greatly depending on the thing to be addressed. The discrepancy for me feels like it is a result of the approach I take to climbing on the Moonboard vs. As far as volume goes, there's definitely a point of diminishing returns; the difference between 50k climbs vs 100k climbs is negligible. (Also, IMO, they transfer better to 5. This is probably also related to the simple fact, that in the gyms I climb, there are only Moonboards. This is so that when I make a move, I am able to hold on for that split second where I might have fallen otherwise. We compare the difficulties of one V3/V5/V7 this guy nailed it. The thing is immaculate. I find that if I use the MB regularly for more than 2-3 months at a time, the "finger gains" I feel from it start to diminish. Some of the moonboard holds are tweaky and the wood on the tension board means you have to be very good with your feet and it's easier on the skin. Yes, the very same Ben Moon who took the humble wooden wall of the training hub and catapulted it into the future. But it’s such straightforward movement, by comparison, and all the holds are “mini jugs”. Here’s what he thought. But i would also consider things like cropped tension board/grasshopper/kilter home wall. So I spend a lot of time on things in the flash+1 range. That said there are random climbs in each grade that are easier and harder. my mini home board is a tension at 45 and i'm happy with it. The Tension Board has 53. If you didn't have access to gym or rock, which system board would you prefer to have at home (not interested in spray wall): 8x12 Moonboard (2016, 2017, 2019, whichever) 7x10 Kilter Full ride home wall 8x10 Tension board 2 I absolutely love the moonboard, but the hold density is lacking compared to the kilter full ride and TB2. Serious board climbers just memorize the holds. I've used all three big name boards, and I think the TB2 keeps me in shape for real rock the best. MoonBoard vs Kilter Board vs hang board vs campus board. For my training, I have use of a Moon Board(40*), Tension Board (30*), campus board, and a gym with hangboard/equipment for weighted pull-ups. Sep 13, 2020 · The Tension Board is the clear winner on ergonomics. Posted by u/jacktreg - 16 votes and 14 comments Finally, I use the moonboard/tension board for pure contact strength. I've climbed a bit on the tension board, a bit on the moon board, and a ton on the kilter board since that's what my local gym has. Tension board - best board to train on. 50+ crushers for data points and on average moonboard was about 1. I want to focus on improving my steep climbing, which heavily involves lock offs and crimp strength. The original tension board is pretty powerful and has the smallest, most aggresive crimps of any commercial board but plenty of jugs too so lots of potential for big throws on good holds or tensiony moves on truly bad holds. It is quite stiff. Yeah, that’s humbling. Right now I only have access to a moon board and I'm glad as I enjoy using the moon board but I would rather climb on a tension board. I heard board climbing is really good at building strength as opposed to do the (often coordination heavy, but kinda fun) boulders in the gym, so I was thinking of trying it out. I’ve done 40+ 7A-7B (out of 224 BMs in total) on the 2016 but haven’t been able to do a single 7A on the 2019 board. The symmetry aspect is fantastic for training too. That said, I knew within the first 10 minutes of climbing a Tension board that I preferred it immensely. I think the board is better at training contact strength (rfd) vs peak finger flexor force. The holds are comfortable and don't tear up my skin as fast, which means I'm more motivated to train. I have not had that many sessions on it yet, as I am mostly climb routes, have been increadibly busy with work and just moved to a new country. If you are frequent board climber, it is far more important how you use the board than what board you actually climb on. I could see the kilter being good for, say, RRG style climbing. For an old board, you’re stuck with the old dimensions, but it’s not like that isn’t also an issue with, say, upgrading to the TB2. In a strength block i'll focus on very crimpy, static climbs that require lots of body tension. raw Climbed on the Moonboard for about two years and fell in love. You can set a super crimpy problem or a huge dyno. Everything Moonboard related. Climbed V8 outside, V7 BM on the moonboard (I’ve sent 6 V7 BMs) V7 on tension board. 2 back on to make myself feel better when getting crushed at low grades! Getting ready to put up a wall in my garage, just curious what other people’s thoughts are on the different Moonboard sets. A true spray wall has infinite moves and betas. I have a tension board 1 and would not recommend it for beginners at all. *Disclaimer I haven't climbed on an actual full tension board* tension board w/o kick board works. Anyone know why Tension and Kilter holds are so much more expensive than the Moon sets? Here is a breakdown of the costs (without LEDs) and their app volumes (for 8'x12' configuration). I understand the tension board is a bit more expensive but that's not really an issue. Tension. Kilter has another wall called the home wall that might fit your needs. I climb in the tension so much more because there are tons of routes already set up. Love watching her The mini style is definitely different and if you want the moonboard style of climbing more than you want a system, i would just build a spray wall. Ravioli Biceps, disciple of our Lord and Savior Ben Moon, once said: " Brush Thy Board" and so shall we follow. The Moon Board is a clear loser here--the holds are rough and sharp, and I found that made me not want to train. It's less tweaky than the moonboard, and has good enough holds to learn board style movement in a relatively safe way. I've never been on a Kilter board, but on a Tension and Moonboard and I somehow clicked most with the Moonboard. One of the reasons it's not my favorite board, but definitely something worth training and it's great for contact strength. There’s no secret formula to getting better at moonboarding except doing it. Below ~45 the Kilter holds are all so good that you either get crazy dynos or super contrived movement on hard climbs vs. Also, the Moonboard is intended to be at a fixed 40 degree angle (obviously you can climb at whatever angle you want but that’s the angle it’s graded for). The holds are simply too positive. However, I quite like the MoonBoard style and other boards, like the Tension Board 2, for example, are quite expensive. I'm here to shill for the Tension Board 2. Moonboard and tension have shit holds and are much better at training finger contact strength. Kilterboard grades are unserious, probably like whatever the true grade is +4 most of the time. 00. If you're going to train and you're just doing the same sequences over and over while a climb is set, you're spending a lot of time not training things that could be just as or possibly more beneficial. 2 v grades harder than outdoors or other boards! I now add that 1. I'm also curios on people's use of tension boards specifically. There are two set angles the Moonboard can come in, 25 or 40 degrees. Tension has the same issue, but my own was much worse, and there is a lot more variety and fun now. Same goes for the moon board. Wall walkers: Very, I mean very, small gym. since i am 5'5". I think I could climb V8 on the moonboard if I stayed consistent and projected them. Like Clockwork is not substantially harder than V4 range outside though. Same thing with tension, there are lots of problems on there that are the same concensus grade at 40 and 25. I even have to adjust which grade climbs I shoot for when I adjust the tension board over various angles The 2019 board layout (pictured) has some more generous holds than previous layouts. I think it was a mistake to put the red holds on the MB master set. The costs for a Tension (the short/narrow) was insane. Crank: Good for sport climbing and top roping, don't bother with the bouldering unless it's for the kilter board. Reply reply 10 votes, 24 comments. Thanks for any advice. 20-25 deg on Tension is easier, 30-35 deg is about right, and 40-50+ deg on Tension is slightly sandbagged Everything in the gym is usually easier than Tension at the same grade. But to the Gumby point—moon problems are like, max, eight moves. If you want a system then imo it's 100% you should build a mini over a chopped full board.
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